Rumbly bearings

Danthefestaman

Dirt Disciple
Good morning all,
I have just brought a Gary Fisher Wahoo and although I believe it was being used a little TLC will help it be a bit better. I have a question about the hubs. The rear cassette seems a little noisy when spinning, is there anything that can be done to quieten it down and how? Also the front hub is a little notchy like there is a tiny bit of grit in it, can this be washed out and repacked with grease? The hubs are Joytech with original rims I believe. I have normal multipurpose grease, cv grease, wd40, spray grease and 3-1 oil at home I could use.

Still getting it cleaned up a bit and researching about the bike itself so excuse me if I get info wrong. I know its a base model and so on but the colour is awesome. Don't really want to improve it unless something breaks and cant get direct replacement.

Thanks in advance!!
 
Its replacement wheels time or spend some money time

The Joytech freehub body may be hard to find a replacement for and you can redo the hubs but if the cones are pitted, you may also find it just as difficult to find replacements within a reasonable budget.
 
Re:

Found the Joytech web page, they list hubs don't quote me if they are the same or not. I was going to take the cassette off anyway as I want to clean it. If I'm right in saying they use Weinman rims?? (don't quote my spelling). I've seen these before many with Shimano hubs so I suppose a good set of these could be an option.
For the threaded part that goes through the hub (axle) do you undo the locknut, pull it out, do the bearings come with it or does it depend on hub?
 
Re:

Okey doke.....you will need to look at this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8vek2HsaFM

You will also need for the front hub:

Good quality grease - e.g. Finish Line
Cone spanners
Ordinary open end spanners 15-19
Some new ball bearings of the right size (you'll only know what size after you have taken it apart)
Vast amounts of patience
Solvents to make everything spotless before you put it back together again - e.g. GT85, WD40

For the rear hub - er more problematic if that hub uses a special free hub and not a shimano bolt on

Chain whip
HG/Freehub tool
10mm allen key probably
As above

There are plenty of videos about removing freehubs.
The bearings can be removed and replaced. That is some of the rumbling.
But the free hub itself might be worn. They are difficult to find if dedicated to that hub.
You can breathe more life into them by

1 taking it off
2 soaking it in solvent - really spraying it a lot and rotating it a lot
3 solvent will get past the seal on the back and dissolve all the rubbish in there
4 turn and turn and turn it
5 leave it overnight to drain and evaporate placing it upright with the back upwards
6 select a thick proprietary oil such as finish line chain oil
7 hold it upright and drip oil at the rear of the free hub into the tiny tiny gap between the outer body and the inner part of the free hub
8 turn and turn the free hub with the oil sitting on that gap and you will see it disappear into the free hub
9 do that until the free hub quietens right down and feels smooth

even if things are worn - e.g. the bearings are pitted, you'll get more life out of the wheels doing all this

Now the tedious part - getting the cones set - that's another story and is here...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnwVHPgpgVQ

I would allocate 4-5 hours to doing it, plus the trip to the LBS to get bearings
 
Cone spanners??? Not familiar to me, ive got millions of spanners but never heard of them??

Cassette itself is a Shimano Hyper glide - c.

Will take a look in between a massive garden project. Just want to make it run a little better for now and then I will look to sort more when the weather turns a bit rough!

Cheers
 
Danthefestaman":2gyt0qtw said:
Cone spanners???

Much thinner than your average spanner. Watch the you tube videos that people have posted links for, all will become clear.
 
Re: Re:

2manyoranges":2qtbdubq said:
Now the tedious part - getting the cones set - that's another story and is here...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnwVHPgpgVQ

I use a tip for getting the right amount of play when adjusting cups from Calvin Jones Big Blue Book.

Saves time from trial and error method.

I put ring spanner, or similar, over one end of the axle and tighten up against the closed QR skewer with similar force to when in frame.

Then adjust the cone, on the opposite end to the ring spanner. It can be adjusted precisely whilst under the same load as when in the frame.
 

Attachments

  • 20200611_205720.jpg
    20200611_205720.jpg
    634.3 KB · Views: 291
Cone spanners - ahh got it. Might have to grind a spare to suit.

Will watch the videos in the morning and figure it out. Who knew bikes could have so many fiddly settings, worse than setting tappets haha!!
 
Re:

It’s worth noting that riding a notchy hub with the bearings too tight will inevitably result in damage to the hub or cones. After that, new wheel time unless parts are available to fix it.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top