RSP Pro-line M-Trax
- Thread starter kingoffootball
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mattiamerca
Retro Guru
Re:
roox components
i love those components!
i'm looking forward to see the bike complete!
roox components
i love those components!
i'm looking forward to see the bike complete!
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Thanks
I would have preferred to use RooX seatpost and bars too if I could have afforded to, but I do like the Zoom ones.
Only another year or two until it's finished at this rate Which will be decades before the Scapins!
I would have preferred to use RooX seatpost and bars too if I could have afforded to, but I do like the Zoom ones.
Only another year or two until it's finished at this rate
Which will be decades before the Scapins!
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Shifter and chainring are now fitted, but I've come to a bit of a halt with fitting the Maguras. The instructions that come with them don't say anything about shortening the hoses. I'm sure I can find tips online when I get a chance to look, but does anyone have any particular pointers? I've never used hydraulics on a bike before, my only experience is from disc brakes on motorbikes.
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They are brand new, in the box HS11s, so yes, they require a lot of shortening.
Osella
Senior Retro Guru
Re:
Aye, had that with a set of 33's. Rear hose was okay, front not so much. I actually took that to my LBS as I didn't want to knacker out the hose (in case).
Magura themselves do have some good guides for shortening the hoses - they used to be in the box, but are all over their website too.
Essentially they suggest 1) unscrew the hose from the lever 2) drain the fluid from the lever 3) cut hose with a craft knife or hose cutter 4) push on the hose shroud nut 5) fit hose olive 6) Screw into the lever 7) refill fluid.
Hose sleeve bolt & Olive - the above will not work without those! Tightening the nut compresses the olive to form a seal.
The other way is to follow steps 1-3, remove the threaded barb from the original hose and fit that to the shortened hose. Magura do this at the factory by heating the hose until it's flexible enough to fit the barb in, simply pushing it will likely split or damage the hose, so they do not recommend this as their 'instructed' method. Heating the hose can however (as my LBS did) be done with a hairdryer but this is only practical if you drain the hose first.
Advantage of Magura's method with current brakes is that the nuts are no longer made of cheese so they are pretty easy to work with, and Maguras never really need bleeding, so you can remove the hose, drain (OR just place upright in a jar!) the lever/reservoir and you then get minimal fluid loss and no need to bleed or refill. Also no potential for damaging the barb or boiling residual fluid inside the hose.
Advantage of method 2 is that you don't have any problems over the olive needing to make a seal; the barb simply does what it always did, and you keep the olive & sleeve for a rainy day.. Also no 'need' to drain the lever/reservoir.
I'm not familiar with the brand new 11's; do they have a pad adjuster? If so - make sure that's would all the way out before starting anything. Maguras are pretty solid kit; designed to fit & forget but also designed to be worked on if needed.
Aye, had that with a set of 33's. Rear hose was okay, front not so much. I actually took that to my LBS as I didn't want to knacker out the hose (in case).
Magura themselves do have some good guides for shortening the hoses - they used to be in the box, but are all over their website too.
Essentially they suggest 1) unscrew the hose from the lever 2) drain the fluid from the lever 3) cut hose with a craft knife or hose cutter 4) push on the hose shroud nut 5) fit hose olive 6) Screw into the lever 7) refill fluid.
Hose sleeve bolt & Olive - the above will not work without those! Tightening the nut compresses the olive to form a seal.
The other way is to follow steps 1-3, remove the threaded barb from the original hose and fit that to the shortened hose. Magura do this at the factory by heating the hose until it's flexible enough to fit the barb in, simply pushing it will likely split or damage the hose, so they do not recommend this as their 'instructed' method. Heating the hose can however (as my LBS did) be done with a hairdryer but this is only practical if you drain the hose first.
Advantage of Magura's method with current brakes is that the nuts are no longer made of cheese so they are pretty easy to work with, and Maguras never really need bleeding, so you can remove the hose, drain (OR just place upright in a jar!) the lever/reservoir and you then get minimal fluid loss and no need to bleed or refill. Also no potential for damaging the barb or boiling residual fluid inside the hose.
Advantage of method 2 is that you don't have any problems over the olive needing to make a seal; the barb simply does what it always did, and you keep the olive & sleeve for a rainy day.. Also no 'need' to drain the lever/reservoir.
I'm not familiar with the brand new 11's; do they have a pad adjuster? If so - make sure that's would all the way out before starting anything. Maguras are pretty solid kit; designed to fit & forget but also designed to be worked on if needed.
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Thank you, that's really helpful.
I have to say, if I had thought about the requirement to do all this beforehand I'd almost definitely have stuck to conventional brakes, or at least bought some second hand so as not to have to shorten the hoses.
I may actually enjoy doing it as something new to learn when it comes to it, but it might be a long time before I find enough free to give it a go.
I have to say, if I had thought about the requirement to do all this beforehand I'd almost definitely have stuck to conventional brakes, or at least bought some second hand so as not to have to shorten the hoses.
I may actually enjoy doing it as something new to learn when it comes to it, but it might be a long time before I find enough free to give it a go.
Osella
Senior Retro Guru
kingoffootball":wqqcizkt said:
Yeees, the world of used Maguras is a fun one.. That's how I got to know a bit about dismantling & tinkering with various versions.
Having said that though, it's really not all that different from cantis needing aftermarket front and/or rear hangers on some frames, crossover cables vs stops/moon units/hangers etc; cables fraying, cutting down inners & outers yadda yadda..
V's are a little more straightforward but there's still a lot of questions about cable pull, canti or V levers, mini-V's, pad types, post types, etc; it's swings & roundabouts really, but once you get the hang of Maguras you are rewarded with excellent braking performance with lesser loss of braking in the wet. *I am not paid by Magura - but maybe I should get something on expenses..
One thing that happens quite often is that the crossover hose can vacuum when you disconnect the main hose from the lever and you end up with just one piston moving; this can be cured by hanging the brakes up by the lever end, with the pistons below (Magura also recommend this approach as they also suggest only bleeding brakes when on the bike(!) as the lever is higher than the pistons) and let gravity take as much fluid into the hoses + pistons as possible; then open up the filler cap (or disconnect main hose, depends on the exact system design) and top up the lever/reservoir, then try again. Sometimes you have to repeat this once or twice, but I've never had it fail yet..
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Well, it may be the last bike I build, but I'm glad I should get to find out how it rides.
There's a few firsts in there for me (suspension, maguras) so it might be difficult to separate out how the frame feels.
There's a few firsts in there for me (suspension, maguras) so it might be difficult to separate out how the frame feels.
