Rossin Pursuit Build

[Townman]

As I said, it was an option. Maybe a paint job may be the best way for a more traditional finish. I will look into it

 

[PANZR]

Wow, that's hot...it's my dream bike also

Go with baked-enamel if you can

I've had many bikes finished in both baked-enamel and powdercoat by a few different companies and find the baked enamel to be superior overall
I only choose powder-coating in some cases because it's cheaper and the bike has less value to me (usually a cheap resto that I'm selling on)

Are there any bicycle makers/manufacturers that powdercoat their frames?

 

[bugloss]

If it was mine I would get it put through a lye bath to carefully remove the paint and then painted properly with not too thick enamel.

I wouldn't get it shot blasted as it will texturise the finely filed lugs and roughen the steel.

If you don't believe me, you should talk to the London Chroming Company about how they prepare their pars and about the damage shot blasting does to steel. (They are highly regarded in the vintage car world for their quality finish.)

This is where my 1979 Rossin Record is going to be finished as a "cromato" and I want a good job done. As I'm an old fusspot.

Love your bike by the way and look forward to seeing more of it.

 

[Chopper the ex Copper]

Are there any bicycle makers/manufacturers that powdercoat their frames?

Back in the day Saracen powder coated all their frames and.Raleigh have used a nylon powder coat in some of their better frames, such as the Max Cromo series. Many modern manufacturers use powder coat, a few with gloss lacquer atop it either as standard or as an option.

I'm a fan of powder coating and if done well by a skilled artisan can give results virtually indistinguishable from paint. However, that level of expertise is very rare indeed so on a valuable or historically significant machine a wet paint finish of some sort is the way forward, and I think our OPs frame would be best served with a decent paint finish.

Get the frame blasted by all means but avoid shot or bead blasting and pay out for soft media blasting of some sort, such as crushed walnut shell. I'm not a fan of chemical baths for stripping as it's difficult to remove the liquid from inside the frame tubes and over time it can compromise the new paint.

It's a lovely frame and I'm looking forward to watching the build progress.

 

[kaiser]

What a fantastic project! Really looking forward to following this one, that chainset is lush!

 

[Townman]

I totally agree with not using a heavy media for shotblasting. I want the lugs crisp, so I think I want to remove the paintwork myself by hand. I need to inspect the steelwork underneath the paint before I give it to a professional frame painter anyway.

I think my direction would be to remove paint by means of a chemical stripper, carefully applied with a brush as not to get any inside the frame. Once the paint is removed I will smooth it down by hand. It's then when I will be able to see if I need any brazed fillings. I have been in touch with a great frame builder who is happy to help out with these fixes.

Thanks for everyone's advice so far!

 

[bugloss]

That's a top idea, what do you plan to use as stripper?

 

[Townman]

Today I took the plunge and started stripping the forks. I used Nitromors as I have used it effectively in the past. Brushed it on, let it bubble up and scrapped it off. It killed me inside taking the paint off such a beauty, but I know it's for a good cause. I came across something which I didn't expect though. Some of the smoothed fillets I thought was brazing, was in fact body filler. All round the inside of the forks where the tyre runs was body filler. I didn't know whether to leave it or scrape it out, but I started scraping back down to the steelwork. I then proceeded to smooth the steel down and started cleaning it up. All seemed ok, no rust spots or anything.

A little inspection on the frame and the large structural fillets on the inside of the main triangle of the frame are body filler filled too. I'm not too sure what to do with these yet. Obviously they are the trademark features of the frame. I think i'm going to be very gentle with removing the paint from them and smooth them down retaining them for painting. Possibly topping it up with a newer layer of body filler?? I didn't expect this and haven't used bodyfiller before so if anyone has any advice on this I would be very grateful.

Cheers

 

[PANZR]

Well at least you now know that you'll need to enamel it and not powdercoat it (it wont adhere to filler)
Body filler is easy enough to use, just follow the mixing intructions and get the right grit sandpaper and you'll be able to shape it nicely

 

[TGR]

Matt,

Nice work. Take advice from your frame builder about the filler (am i stating the obvious?).

Did you consider sandblasting? Quick, easy and inexpensive and i don't think it too severe on the steel.

Richard