Ritchey P20, this is going to take a while...

[LumPi Panda]

Good afternoon,

Having completed the worlds smallest* Yeti SB66C, and very nearly losing my mind in the process, I have decided that it really needs a hardtail companion.

After much pondering and to-ing and fro-ing among the available candidates I have settled on my Ritchey P20.

The P20 was my first really serious mountain bike, bought about a week after starting work in a bike shop. It went through various iterations as the years went on, so I am not setting out to make a spec perfect version. It will have a combination of those parts that I was particularly fond of or will be most engaging to recreate.

The intended** spec sheet so far includes;

Frame: Ritchey P20 19" from somewhere around 2001
Fork: Rock Shox SID SL 1" steerer
Headset: Chris King
Tyres: Ritchey Z-Max 2.1, possibly red, possibly not
Hubs: Tricky one this, probably Hope Ti-Glide even though I never ran them on my P20. Possibly Middleburn, it did have a pair of these for a bit.
Cranks: Middleburn RS-3
Brakes: Avid Arch Supreme
Front mech:
Rear Mech: First generation SRAM X0
Shifters: SRAM X0 gripshift (controversial)
Saddle: Flite
Other notable mentions: Pace RC-50 stem, Ritchey WCS bars and seatpost, M858 pedals


That's about as far as I've got so far with the spec. It may change to M739 XT drivetrain, thumbshifters, maybe canti brakes, 8 speed or 9 speed. Nothing is really set in stone aside from the frame, forks, saddle and tyres.

I welcome input and opinion about the final build spec, but reserve the right to completely ignore it.

So without further ado,
deep breath
here we go again...



* requires verification
** subject to possible change

 

[LumPi Panda]

Right, tyres first...

First, draw it in cross setion to work out the various layers. Red are 1mm thick, yellow and green are 0.8mm


Some layers need slots cut into them to line up where the treads sit. Because the tread crosses the centre line of the tyre, and the tyre will be moulded in two halves, it needs a register to make sure the same bit lines up each time. This is the outline for one tyre layer and one rim layer. The notch between the two is bigger on the top right bit. This will help later, as the tyre can only fit the rim in one position.


All the artwork for the tyres...


Time to fire up the laser.

 

[LumPi Panda]

Half a tyres worth of layers.


Styrene rod helps to line up each layer to make sure the slots are all in the right place.



Give it a quick slick over with car body filler to flesh out the shape and sand it back to expose the white layers. Each slot then needs drilling out.
This is extremely tedious, there's about 500 of them.


After drilling, they all need squaring out with a scalpel blade.
This is even more tedious.

 

[al]

You're in the wrong place

https://www.retrobike.co.uk/forums/readers-bikes-1998.21/

al.

 

[27motorhead]

@al does have a point. I wonder if one of the moderators can move it across? Won't post much in case you need to start a new thread. @LumPi Panda I'm so going to love this thread, first screen grabs of all the CAD line work gave me a big grin. This is going to be amazing!

 

[LumPi Panda]

You're in the wrong place

https://www.retrobike.co.uk/forums/readers-bikes-1998.21/

al.

Well spotted, apologies.

Do I have to just wait for a Mod to come along or is there a way of getting it moved?

 

[27motorhead]

Well spotted, apologies.

Do I have to just wait for a Mod to come along or is there a way of getting it moved?

If i type @john , @mk one both of those are moderators so they should get notified about this thread now.

Not sure if they can move it, or just delete it and you need to start again in the newer bike section... so maybe cut & paste your text somewhere safe just in case!