Rims Question

[tintin40]

Are some rims better for the rear wheel and some only for the front wheel?As i do and i notice others use different tires for the the front/rear and even hubs(makers that is eg-bullseye front/hope rear). As the rear wheel is under different stress compared too the front. I'm talking rigid or front suser bikes.
Views?

 

[The Ken]

Way back I used to run a really light front rim {can't remember the make, matrix or something - narrow with a bullet crosssection and no rivit housings}

...anyway I had a heavier rim on the back but the front rim split at the end of a downhill so I returned to heavier rim, it made sense to me at the time right up until I nearly came a cropper.

 

[scant]

I'm not sure if that marketing ploy of front & rear specific rims is used much anymore? bontrager, ritchey & others used to do off -centre spoked rims for rear wheel intended use.
I'd be curious to see how well the Stans rims hold up as they're impressively lite.

 

[gump]

Yep, Bonty made them front and rear specific. I always run the lightest rims I can find and have never had a problem yet, regardless of what I do with them.
Are you running Stans Scant? They are on the list when I feel like a new school rebuid.

 

[Owen]

Some people run a non-eyleted front rim as they are lighter and an eyeleted rear for added strength.

Personally I always run eyleted front and rear as I trust them more. And always the same rims front and rear because it just looks better (this rule does not apply to bmx but I'm guessin we're not talking bmx here).

 

[P20]

The P20 has 24 front and 28 rear, but they are the same (crossride ceramic) rim. Purely on looks i'd fit the same rims front and rear. I killed the rear rim on my 575, which now has Stans 355ZTR front and rear. They seem strong enough so far...

 

[Stick Legs]

A guy I used to hang and ride with, a real hard rider broke everything. (He pre empted DH risers by using 27" Kawasaki MX bars!)
The DBR crowd will be pleased to hear he ran an Axis (in the old grey with the purple pearl laquer) which survived.

His wheel of choice was Mavic M7 Oxygen CD on M730 36 hole. Unburstable!

 

[scant]

A guy I used to hang and ride with, a real hard rider broke everything. (He pre empted DH risers by using 27" Kawasaki MX bars!)
The DBR crowd will be pleased to hear he ran an Axis (in the old grey with the purple pearl laquer) which survived.

His wheel of choice was Mavic M7 Oxygen CD on M730 36 hole. Unburstable!

I know of some of those M7 rims on campag hubs

andy, I havent tried the stans rims, i'm slightly wary of non eyeletted rims, a race head friend of mine can get em mega cheap so i'm tempted... tho the freerider i'm turning into maybe I should be using the M7CDs

 

[Stick Legs]

My personal preference is matching hubs and rims front and rear. The best combo I have found for a while are Mavic X517CD on M900 32H 3x front and rear. I can't remember the last time I put a spoke key on them. (touches wood quickly!)

I have always run Mavic eyeletted CD rims, never had any real wheel trouble.

Weight wise the are not too bad, I would prefer to run Kevlar 1.9 tyres on a stronger wheel rather than bigger tyres on a weaker wheel. I carry a spare tube but my trail side wheel building skills leave a lot to be desired!

 

[messiah]

I used to run a Campag Atek rim on the front and a Mavic M231? on the rear.

The Campag is non eyelet and very light while the rear was a little heavier and had eyelets to handle the extra stresses - that was my thinking at the time anyway.

Matching rims/tyres etc has never bothered me although I would always go for silver - hard/dark anodised rims never lasted as long for me - they tended to split at the sidewall earlier than silver rims