Reynolds 753

Re:

Wow, very conprehensive advice guys- thanks!

Just checked the spacing of the frame for the rear hub and it comes up as 126mm.

Does this dictate the chain set and number of gears I can use?

I won't be able to find out the manufacture year.

Are there any other key measurements I should note in order to get compatible parts?
 
NO problems on the front, however it's best to stick to no more than 7 speeds at the rear to avoid a fragile wheel with excessive dish.
 
Re: Re:

lwe2405":24whj79h said:
Does this dictate the chain set and number of gears I can use?

Are there any other key measurements I should note in order to get compatible parts?

Not the chainset, but as hamster says it is best to stick to a 6 or 7 speed cassette. If you put a triple crankset on the front and choose your gears sensibly, you will have more than enough ratio's to tour with.

Two more critical dimensions are the inside and outside diameter of the seat tube. The inside will dictate the diameter of the seatpost and the outside the clamp size of the front mech. The pictures show the frame has a threaded headset, so I would think, given the age of the frame that you will need a 1" quill type stem, the length of the stem will be down to what you find comfortable, but again for touring you may want something with a bit more rise.
 
Okie doke, looks like the inside of the seat tube is 26mm, and the outside 29mm. Does that sound compatible with a 1" quill stem?
 
Re:

Three different things.

26mm sounds a little small, especially for 753.

28.6mm is a standard size for front mechs, but by no means the only dimension, so check this before you buy.

1" quill stem fits into the top of the forks, through the bearing. It is what the handle bars clamp into.
 
Ok, so inside of the seat tube seems more like 27.2mm now. That's quite a common size, right?

And the outside diameter seems to be more like 31mm on second glance. I've read that the next most common size is 31.8mm. Could it be something in between?

The top of the forks only measures 22mm in diameter. Wouldn't that make it too small for a 1" quill stem?
 
Re:

That's a nice-looking frame, designed for touring (fittings for a rack and mudguards at the rear). 27.2 a common seatpost size but the tolerances and differences are small and some trial and error with seatposts sometimes unavoidable. The decal suggests round about 1990, but decals can be applied later on and it may have been built earlier.

753 was designed to be about as lightweight as steel got at the time. You may hear some stories about giving a harsh ride, not being suitable for touring, being fragile, etc, but wouldn't take much notice of these. I have a lot of steel bikes and 753 is my favourite ride, fast, comfortable, responsive, even on the harsh road surfaces in the Dales, Howardian Hills and the Wolds surrounding York. I haven't toured with this one but have seen a number of cycle tourists on 753 bikes over the years (not too many, these are uncommon tourers!) and they all swear by them. Still get people asking if they can pick the bike up outside cafes to check on the weight, these are generally well-built and cherished frames.

Suspect the only slight complication will be around wheels and numbers of gears you can get but there's already been some sensible advice about what to do. All I would say is that mine originally had 6 speed at the back but I ride 10 speed and haven't had any problems (built up with Shimano Ultegra components, Cinelli stem and bars and a Campag seatpost with a Brooks saddle).

This is a frame to be built up and enjoyed.

Good luck.
 
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It sure is a beautiful from, that's why I had to buy it! I thought, get the frame and then work out the rest.

Interesting that you've built your's up with Campag parts. Any particular reason for that? I thought they wouldn't be ideal for a tourer given their incompatibility- shops have to order them in if you need to replace one on the road....
 
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