Retro trail bike frame weights?

[reanimation]

BITD (early 90's) I remember the benchmark being around 5lbs

I didn't have any reliable scales then (and I still don't) but I know my 18" GT was well over 5lbs, 6+ probably, then those chunky forks and Stem yow!

My trade up to an Orange Prestige/Clockwork (19") I think was below 5lbs and I built up (on a paper round budget) accordingly with mavics etc.


Now I've been measuring up my frames I think My Muddy Fox Socerer Mega tange (19") weighed in at perhaps 5lbs 8ish, my new hard knocks 'jump' bike weighs in at 6.5lbs and my old alloy BSX type bike weighs in at 5lbs 8 too

Oh this is all on boggo kitchen scales BTW, the Raleigh Apex feat Reynolds tubes (17" - bit short rly need a 400mm Thoms) weighs in at 5lbs 12 or summat like :O

but it rides reasonably light! does that mean the weight does not matter?

So I'm wondering whats normal for a retro trail/xc bike? as I was planning to build the Raleigh up as a all weather XC machine with some nice Mavic 717's and other lighter tit bits

Wondering now whether to find a 19" for this now like a Prestige...
but then maybe i'll enconter some popularity/scene tax :?

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Cheers

 

[clockworkgazz]

love the picture- your builds are as well organized as mine :roll: nice socks BTW

I don't prescribe to the weight fetish- good parts on a strong frame that looks the mutts is what counts for me- I'm old and fatter so a few extra pounds either way doesn't really make any difference.

 

[FluffyChicken]

My 20" (iirc) frame is sub 5lb (1991) @ ~4.7lb

Frame design is the important part, but more important is the frame fit to you and if you have set it up for you, for instance position over the pedals, people like that in different places.

Making it lighter has it benefits if you don't loose the characteristics you like. I know my model frame a few years later was getting on for a 1lb less (@18").


http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... c&start=15

 

[perry]

i think my trailstar is around 6.5 , ill try to remember to weigh it when its due its strip down . shame i cant find my nice salter scales i seem to have lost

my lavadome is noticably lighter even though its larger but the tubing is thinner and theres the double butting too

i always keep a conscious effort to use parts that arnt unnecessarily heavy but i would rather have things that are durable , love you long time

centre of gravity plays a bigger part as well as rotational and unsprung , just having light bits scattered around doesnt make a good handling bike

i like a low frame , a long post with a light seat perched on top . the long post gives flex , reducing buzz while seated and the light seat keeps the weight nice and low for out of the seat flicking . strong bars regardless of weight , i can make my azonics flex , i wouldnt like a lesser bar to snap on me . stem is relatively light but stiff . my forks weigh a ton but they dont twang about . i go for fairly light cranks , i like a bit of flex . ive never bent a wheel so usually try to get 32s , i have wide rims for the times they slam against the ground , i drill them to save 5grams but being rotational it helps a teeny bit . ive been getting away with a light cheap semi slick in the rear and a similar but side knoblie in the front . tubes are sometimes 24"

probably closer to 30lbs than it is 25lb but oh well its solid as fook

 

[The Ken]

my frame is 3lb4oz but the bike still weighs 25lb, and then there is the 6lb of water and tools I carry on my back each ride, along with the counter balance of my overweight beer belly.

All this can make the centre of gravity a little high, it used to feel a lot better when I was only 10-1/2 stone but at my current 13 it even takes longer to stop.

I know what I need to make it better but buying titanium is so much better than dieting.

 

[reanimation]

Thought you might like the jazzy week day socks, and the fact that I splatted the remaining bike to bits in the kitchen while the boss was away!

I could however have shown ya a pic of it today after I had it in the bath with me. clean and tidy now, all the parts in boxes and draws etc etc. yes 3 or 4 bike builds and at least one or two cars in bits its stressful but fun.


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Anyway, yeah I wonder what it means 'Main Tubes' http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d25/D ... s_8476.jpg

Does it possibly mean the rear stays are Hi Ten Steel
:?

It had heavier rims and full 21 gears last time I went on it and felt all right so reckon I could take a pound off just in stem and wheels swap. then save some on the flite and Thomson seat post, was gonna remove some gears but might not bother now.

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I know weight of the frame isn't a biggie if its a good one that fits, just curious what you's were running, BITD as a weak 14/15 y.o I really couldn't take the weight of that 32lb ish GT any more! As a slightly more muscular 30summat i reckon I can handle it! Will need some training advancements to keep up with the pack even if I am skinny

 

[W W Biffta]

there is some blurb in the 93 kona catalogue about how 5lb use to be the benchmark for high end frames, and isnt it great how konas bottom end weighs under that.
that old cannondales where pretty light tho, 1.5kg?
i decided to build a lightbike cos i realised one day while off road i had probably carried my bike more than ridden it (i like to explore off trail )
so i went to weight weenies and drew up a short list, built up a bike about 7kg, with the frame about 1.2. problem is after about 6 months half the parts started to wear out and the frame cracked.
rotational weight is important, but overall for general riding i dont think matters much. although the sactioned races have a lower safety weight limit so there is obviously a relative advantage.
i agree about the balance issue. on the bike i rode today i had an extralite/517 on the front and some no brand solid axel on the back. felt like i was dragging an anchor around.

 

[Mr Panda]

Firstly - I don't normally get into this level of detail, but as the wife's away to Glasgow and i happen to have a bare S/Works M4 frame fresh from Caithness (cheers Jamie ) i've dug out the kitchen scales and can pronounce the frame & headset 3lb 7 oz. Jings that's light, well in my experience anyway....its only 15"ctc or so but really its so light its almost invisible.

Secondly - to The Ken - dieting vs titanium :shock: I see your point, and up to a point , agree with your point (myself nudging the heavier side of 16 large bags of cement) - BUT lets face facts; coming from a long line of Dundonian/Aberdonian predecessors as I do, remember that dieting not only sheds pounds but incurs lower costs PLUS titanium bits cause you to shed ££££ ie higher costs :cry:

Sorry, I had to do it - learned to ride and bought my first bike in Dundee - excellent times.

 

[REKIBorter]

My 1994 Parkpre Pro Image frame 19" weighs 3lb 7oz, complete bike with Judy SL's is 22lb 2oz. BITD the OE spec bike weighed 23lb 8oz

 

[messiah]

I rode my 24lb retro hardtail up a mountain on Wednesday and it hurt like hell. I usually ride a 38lb modern behemoth up the same mountain and it hurts about the same.

For the descent I had to carry the retro bike for the first bit so as not to die... had I been on the big bike I would have been halfway off the mountain by the time I got back on the retro machine. I then had to pick my way down the rest of the mountain but I amazed myself with how much I could still ride.

My time overall for the circuit was about the same as normal so I gained on the climbs what i lost on the descents.

Summary... It was a great day out in the hills on a bike. I never planned to do that ride but when I got to where I planned to go the car park was shut and this was the nearest option. I'm glad I made the effort... picking my way off the hill on the retro bike was just as much fun as blasting off it with over half a foot of travel at each end.

I love biking.