@Woz Thanks!
If I can get an extra 10% of front braking power, and the bike does not fall apart, I'd go as far as calling it a huge success. It is always nice to build your idea into a real life bike (that's one of the reasons we're wrenching, right?), but it's even better when in the end it seriously exceeds your expectations. The fact that none of the parts were meant to fit together, and the frame is a 70 year old French oddity is just the cherry on the cake.
My previous attempts at building (modern) gravel bikes have failed miserably, with me wasting a fair bit of time & money on them, so I'm happy I've hit the right spot with this build.
I am fighting the desire to buy a 700c road bike Durifort frameset from the same era, ideally with a matching Liberia badge. But I've got two road frames that need to be done up, with the Scot likely being the "happily ever after" road bike.
Rim is 19mm internal. Total outer diameter will need to be measured, but I've got 47mm Horizons on the rims right now. The feeling and the riding position is that of a 700c audax bike. It does not have a small wheel feel like you get with a 26er, it also does not have the heavy, sluggish feel of 700c rims wearing 35-42mm tyres that I really don't like. Even without fine-tuning the contact points on Frannie, I happily switch between Frannie and the 700c 25mm wheel on Bojack.
With 47c tyres there's still plenty of guard clearance. If I took the guards off, I could fit even wider tyres (!!!) with lots of clearance everywhere apart from getting the rear wheel in & out past the studs (would have to be deflated to do that, as 47 just about squeezes in).
I also think the frame can take a 700c wheel without any problems with stud-to-rim reach. But why would I ever want to do that, right?
@Blacktopdisciple Thanks. Rear braking is top notch. It's the front that needs a tweak or two to get into the very sweet zone for me.Rear studs are a bit further away (lower) from the rim, which gives them increased mechanical advantage compared to the front. So moving the front hanger from guard mount to the stem is an option. Or doing some creative filing of the brake shoe holders to make the canti spread a bit narrower - that should work too.
Too much fresh air for me today - rear studs further away = lower mech advantage, so yes, lowering the straddle cable might work.
If I can get an extra 10% of front braking power, and the bike does not fall apart, I'd go as far as calling it a huge success. It is always nice to build your idea into a real life bike (that's one of the reasons we're wrenching, right?), but it's even better when in the end it seriously exceeds your expectations. The fact that none of the parts were meant to fit together, and the frame is a 70 year old French oddity is just the cherry on the cake.
My previous attempts at building (modern) gravel bikes have failed miserably, with me wasting a fair bit of time & money on them, so I'm happy I've hit the right spot with this build.
I am fighting the desire to buy a 700c road bike Durifort frameset from the same era, ideally with a matching Liberia badge. But I've got two road frames that need to be done up, with the Scot likely being the "happily ever after" road bike.
Rim is 19mm internal. Total outer diameter will need to be measured, but I've got 47mm Horizons on the rims right now. The feeling and the riding position is that of a 700c audax bike. It does not have a small wheel feel like you get with a 26er, it also does not have the heavy, sluggish feel of 700c rims wearing 35-42mm tyres that I really don't like. Even without fine-tuning the contact points on Frannie, I happily switch between Frannie and the 700c 25mm wheel on Bojack.
With 47c tyres there's still plenty of guard clearance. If I took the guards off, I could fit even wider tyres (!!!) with lots of clearance everywhere apart from getting the rear wheel in & out past the studs (would have to be deflated to do that, as 47 just about squeezes in).
I also think the frame can take a 700c wheel without any problems with stud-to-rim reach. But why would I ever want to do that, right?
@Blacktopdisciple Thanks. Rear braking is top notch. It's the front that needs a tweak or two to get into the very sweet zone for me.
Too much fresh air for me today - rear studs further away = lower mech advantage, so yes, lowering the straddle cable might work.
Last edited: