Restoration questions

[st01495]

I've changed the rear dérailleur on my Dawes Wildcat, adjusted it (nearly) and test rode it. I need some minor adjustments and it will be ok.

With the bike on the stand it gave me a chance to have a look at what needs doing. I would quite like to keep it rideable while I do most of the work. Long term I would like it to be a better bike than when it was new. I have been inspired by reading the forum.

First few jobs are:

Replace cable housings and cables. The original brake ones seem ok, but the gear replacements fitted by LBS are crap and fraying. What would be good ones to use as replacements which would be similar quality and hopefully with red housings?

I think the bottom bracket needs attention and I know this is considered difficult, but I am reluctant to let LBS do it. Can I do this myself, or should I look for LBS further away?

Rear wheel has a slight buckle which wasn't noticeable when riding, but is on the stand. Is this fixable or is a replacement best?

I will be along with more (silly) questions in due course.

thanks

sean

 

[xerxes]

Re:

It's all do-able, but there are some special tools you'll need for some jobs. If you have nothing, you can buy kits for £20.00 and upwards, depending on quality, that will get you started:

https://www.planetx.co.uk/search-result ... =tool+kits

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/s?q=tool+kit

If you already have plenty of spanners, screwdrivers, allen keys etc., it may be better to buy the special tools, like bottom bracket tools, chain breakers etc., separately as you need them.

If you're working on brake and gear cables, a decent set of cutters is essential, side/wire cutters are useless on braided cables: http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOOOCC/on-one-cable-cutter and you'll need some cable ends to keep them from fraying: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/?s=cable+ends

Some "how-to" sites you might find helpful:

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

http://www.madegood.org/

 

[Raging_Bulls]

Re:

Cables :

You'll need different kinds of cables for brakes and gears. Make sure you get them and use them for the right application. Brake cables will get their strength from a metal coil-like structure, whereas gear cables use a sleeve that consists of lots of thin cables. (sorry if my explanation sucks a bit here, not a native English speaker so I don't find the right words)

When buying outer cables, just make sure that they have a plastic tube on the inside. Many of the older brake cables didn't, which lead to the inner cable rubbing against the steel structure of the outer cable. Most modern stuff should be okay though.
If you only plan to restore one or two bikes, just buy the lengths you need. I buy 30 meter reels of generic cable because I also maintain and restore other people's bikes.

if you watch closely, you can see the white plastic sleeve inside the metal


Don't be tempted by the really expensive sets that claim to have less friction and better operation. Any outer and inner cable will work without noticeable friction if you put a very thin coat of grease on the inner cable before you insert it into the outer.

Put some grease on your index finger, put your thumb against it and pull the entire length of the inner cable in between the two, making sure a thin coat of grease is on the cable.

Don't worry about grease being on the part of the cable that is clamped by the bolts on the mech/brake, once you tighten the bolt it won't slip.
You don't need to see a layer of grease on there, as long as the cable looks more glossy it's okay. In the pic above the upper length of cable has grease on it already.
Any excesses won't go through the outer cable and will form a blob of grease on the end of the outer cable, so wipe those off once you've pushed the inner cable through as far as it needs to go.
The grease will not only make the cable's operation smoother, it will also work as a barrier against water and prevent the cable from rusting.

And as xerxes says, a decent set of cutters is essential. Don't just take any set of pliers that have a cutting edge, because those will make horrible cuts. With brake outers you may even get sharp edges that rub against the cable.

----

As for the bottom bracket, it all depends on what you have. Old ones were adjustable and serviceable, later ones are cassette-type where you just wear them out and then replace the entire unit. You can always replace an old style BB with a newer one, in which case the axle length and width of the BB shell are the important numbers. If you get both of those, it would be a straight swap.

The buckle in the rear wheel ... I'd need to see it for myself before I can comment on that. There's a lot that can be straightened out, but some things just are impossible.

 

[st01495]

Re: Re:

It's all do-able, but there are some special tools you'll need for some jobs. If you have nothing, you can buy kits for £20.00 and upwards, depending on quality, that will get you started:

https://www.planetx.co.uk/search-result ... =tool+kits

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/s?q=tool+kit

If you already have plenty of spanners, screwdrivers, allen keys etc., it may be better to buy the special tools, like bottom bracket tools, chain breakers etc., separately as you need them.

I have plenty of normal tools, plus chain splitter, spoke key and will buy the special tools as I need them. Any makes that are good or to avoid?

If you're working on brake and gear cables, a decent set of cutters is essential, side/wire cutters are useless on braided cables: http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOOOCC/on-one-cable-cutter and you'll need some cable ends to keep them from fraying: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/?s=cable+ends

Got some stuff on order.

Some "how-to" sites you might find helpful:

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

http://www.madegood.org/

Those are good. I have the Big Blue book and the Zinn dvd

thanks

 

[st01495]

Re: Re:

----

As for the bottom bracket, it all depends on what you have. Old ones were adjustable and serviceable, later ones are cassette-type where you just wear them out and then replace the entire unit. You can always replace an old style BB with a newer one, in which case the axle length and width of the BB shell are the important numbers. If you get both of those, it would be a straight swap.

Thanks for the cable tips. I have cutters and cable stuff on order and will spend an evening doing the rear dérailleur cable when it all arrives.

I might try to find a better LBS for the BB, but might get tempted to do it.

The buckle in the rear wheel ... I'd need to see it for myself before I can comment on that. There's a lot that can be straightened out, but some things just are impossible.

I have straighted a cheap road bike wheel in the past, so will have a good look later. It is hardly noticeable, but I spotted it when the bike was on the stand.

 

[Koupe]

An alternative to cable cutters, if you have a Dremel or similar, is a thin cutting disc. Used at low speeds, it won't crush the outers or melt the plastic, and you can use it to carefully smooth any sharp edges left.

 

[xerxes]

Re:

Any makes that are good or to avoid?

I've ended up with quite a mish-mash over the years, for stuff I don't use that often, like cone spanners, and things where I thought it wouldn't make much difference, like a chain whip, I bought fairly cheap tools. For things that might be tight and where I wanted a good fit, like bottom bracket tools and crank removers I spent a bit more and bought some genuine Shimano tools.

 

[dyna-ti]

On the Bottom bracket side of things its sometimes an idea to let the lbs do it if theyre any good that is. There is an increasing number of places where the mechanics cant do everything and ive personally witnessed some pretty cack handed attempts where they caused more damage through not doing any prep, just sticking the tool on it and when it slips and chews the mount hand it back to the customer claiming its a write off.

If you intend to give the BB a go strip everything off it and place it on the floor upsidedown(BB on top) Clean the area thoroughly,paying paticular attention to the spline teeth of the BB cup in the frame.
Use a good quality penetrating fluid, not some spray oil or WD40 both of which are useless really.
Brunox has been recommended to me and theres Rocol though very good is also very expensive
http://www.rocol.com/products/penetrating-spray
http://www.brunox.com/website/produkte-en.htm
Clamp the BB tool to the BB cup and whatever ratchet or huge spanner you wish to use and bolt the whole lot in tight, i mean tight. A big 18" ratchet will shift about anything and if its all bolted on tight isnt going to slip without ripping off all the spline teeth of the BB Cup. Something WILL give Might be your spine though.

Be 100% sure of the direction to undo the cup ,place foot on underside of top tube and work on pulling all the muscles in your back
Something will give, trust me. That whole junction is very very strong, highly unlikely youll damage the frame, just be aware of what your foot is doing to the underside of the top tube