Replacing worn rims

If you only need 1 rim I came across a black 32hole x517 in good condition today at my local cycle recycle centre.
 
dyna-ti":26lflt8q said:
mattr":26lflt8q said:
depends on the model, age and condition.

Some of the older hopes had a habit of exploding flanges.......... (i had a couple do this, and have seen dozens more)

What :shock: Spontaneously
Depends on what you mean by spontaneous!
(And how good you are at spotting cracks!)
 
kingbling":2fydkykq said:
If you only need 1 rim I came across a black 32hole x517 in good condition today at my local cycle recycle centre.

That would be a great start, means I only have to find one then and one must be easier than two to find
 
mattr":roaagmeh said:
dyna-ti":roaagmeh said:
mattr":roaagmeh said:
depends on the model, age and condition.

Some of the older hopes had a habit of exploding flanges.......... (i had a couple do this, and have seen dozens more)

What :shock: Spontaneously
Depends on what you mean by spontaneous!
(And how good you are at spotting cracks!)

Excelent. Though it does depend where they are.
Overtensioned spokes from a cack handed wheelbuilder to impact damage to the flange, pretty much consigns it to the bin.

Cracks on the body, where its bonded onto the ti tube - Not a problem, can be cracked all you want, theyre not fall apart.
The cracks on the body?, well ive had plenty, and on my mix and match reutilizing the parts, it still takes an incredible amount of effort to remove the entire side from the tube. Even heated I still needed to draw the sections apart using an engineers vice.

Hope flanges dont just break or are inferiour in any way. Its down to the tension and more likely the new riding styles including rocks,trees etc. Im more than sure if you took a short flange road hub, laced it tightly to an MTB rim then rode it offroad, it likely wouldnt last the course :?
Ti glides/Suspension/Fatso are the only ones im referring to and likely only in 36h flavour. Although that said i rode a 36h ti glide reear on my clockwork and that was used for urban playing , jumping off stuff and the like.
So its possible any cracking on Ti's is likely down to the owners misuse.


PS
The old style was pick your way through the obstcles. Todays style is hammer over them. So a ti glide even 36h would survive no issue unless you ride in a modern fashion and at speed.

Example- From MTBR concerninc Mavic 721 rims.
721 etc is pretty much about the best. Yet this review says theyre crud-
"got a dent in it wen landing a 20ft drop on my hardtail"

I wonder why :facepalm:
 
rugbyleaguebiker":3q88c7zm said:
kingbling":3q88c7zm said:
If you only need 1 rim I came across a black 32hole x517 in good condition today at my local cycle recycle centre.

That would be a great start, means I only have to find one then and one must be easier than two to find

I shall try and sort it out for you, next week is when I'm back there let me know if you want it I would think no more than £20 posted but I will check first and let you know and it is 32hole that you need ?
 
dyna-ti":o3ju2hn1 said:
Hope flanges dont just break or are inferiour in any way. Its down to the tension and more likely the new riding styles including rocks,trees etc. Im more than sure if you took a short flange road hub, laced it tightly to an MTB rim then rode it offroad, it likely wouldnt last the course :?
Inferior compared to what? The early flanges were machined from bar stock IIRC. Which would technically make them inferior to shimano, or at least, more likely to fail through fatigue. But then again, almost every CNC "bling" hub was made in a similar fashion. Don't need to have a cack handed builder to fail a flange like that, just ride lots and lots (and lots). The two i had go were both 10+ years old and probably near enough 100000 miles on them, including 5 or 6 seasons of racing, several bearing swaps and probably a dozen replacement rims.......

(Funnily enough I had another pair of wheels built on some 600 hubs, last i saw they were still going strong on the original rims (Mavic M6 Oxygen) somewhere in Leicestershire, on a daily commuter)
 
Re:

I was surprised to note that nobody has picked up your original question - how much concave in the braking surface is acceptable before a rim needs replacing ?

Since this affects almost everyone who rides a bike with alloy rims ( disc brakes excepted ) its a very important consideration

In your case the Mavic X 517 rim specification shows an overall width ( or braking width ) of 22mm

It is generally accepted* that the amount of wear that is desirable before the rim wall is seriously weakened is about 0.5mm - so if you
have a vernier handy, working from the inside of the rim, measure the braking width in several places around the rim. If you obtain
readings below 21mm then perhaps it is time for a rim swap

If your rim is so old that it's spec is not available, then measure the braking width across the extreme outer diameter of the rim where the brake pads have not been and work from there. Make sure you deflate the tyre before taking this reading as the rim can get wider under
high internal pressure

* various learned documents !
 
Re:

I think if there's any doubt with wear on things like this then riding them is a no go, not sure I have the time or inclination to build wheels, might just take the tyres and tubes and move them on to someone that could use them.
Anyone after a set of purple hope hubs? 32 hole, I'll even throw in 64 spokes that are good and two rims that might or might not be any good? Bargain price
 
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