Removing cut off bolts ?
- Thread starter FluffyChicken
- Start date
- Feedback
- View
The only other bolts it could be are stainless, but then it's 50/50 if it is a magnetic or non-magnetic stainless.
Do have metal laithe access and do have a fater in law who rebuilds and makes needed parts for 'real' classic cars. That's my first port of call now
Well after a good penetrating oil soak. No bolts came with it.
Mind is wondering now... after penetrating oil, I could possibly heat up the bols with a soldering iron tip and then rapidly cool it might help break the bond.
Of course really shoudl just get in there and see what works, but cannot do that till the weekend.
Do have metal laithe access and do have a fater in law who rebuilds and makes needed parts for 'real' classic cars. That's my first port of call now
Well after a good penetrating oil soak. No bolts came with it.Mind is wondering now... after penetrating oil, I could possibly heat up the bols with a soldering iron tip and then rapidly cool it might help break the bond.
Of course really shoudl just get in there and see what works, but cannot do that till the weekend.
weeman_mtb
Retrobike Rider
- Feedback
- View
Would be an excellent idea to make a bush on the lathe to suit whatever drill you use and the forks so that your pilot hole goes smack in the middle of that bolt. Same as the idea above with the bolt really but more made to measure.
I've just won an epic battle with a stuck seatpost, I reckon this is probably worse as there's a thread involved so best of luck to you .
I've just won an epic battle with a stuck seatpost, I reckon this is probably worse as there's a thread involved so best of luck to you
.
Defender
Retro Guru
Hi there,
The aluminium of the crown WILL expand before titanium or any type of steel.
As there is a gap, have you tried to get some Plus Gas or Diesel fuel which is nice and runny, or failing that WD-40 on the bolt so that it runs onto the thread?
Don't try and loosen it with an allen (Hex) key, use a 3/8" 0r 1/2" drive hex socket driver bit, give it a tap with a hammer before trying to undo it.
I speak from experience here, some years ago tried to remove a disc from a M/C wheel using an allen key and messed up the heads, I ended up round a mates with the offending hub bolted to his milling machine bed and we drilled the offending bolt heads out removed the disc and then used a quality easy-out to remove the threaded remains.
Hope this helps :?:
The aluminium of the crown WILL expand before titanium or any type of steel.
As there is a gap, have you tried to get some Plus Gas or Diesel fuel which is nice and runny, or failing that WD-40 on the bolt so that it runs onto the thread?
Don't try and loosen it with an allen (Hex) key, use a 3/8" 0r 1/2" drive hex socket driver bit, give it a tap with a hammer before trying to undo it.
I speak from experience here
, some years ago tried to remove a disc from a M/C wheel using an allen key and messed up the heads, I ended up round a mates with the offending hub bolted to his milling machine bed and we drilled the offending bolt heads out removed the disc and then used a quality easy-out to remove the threaded remains.Hope this helps :?:
Splatter Paint
Retrobike Rider
- Feedback
- View
I can't remember what they're called :roll: but you can get a stud extractor that is essentially a splined shaft. You drill a pilot hole in the cracked off stud and then drift in the splined shaft until it locks solid. Then what amounts to a big nut with a female version of the spline slides over the shaft. You can then use a spanner to undo the stud. These are specifically designed for small diametre bolts. Incidentally titanium work-hardens so make sure you've got a decent drill bit.
SP
SP
Word of encouragement
You may well find that if you can get a hole drilled in there and get a small diameter stud extractor/EZ out in there, that the bolt isn't very tight at all
I had a bolt that was rounded out in the last set of Manitous that I rebuilt
I drilled the head with a hand drill 'til I was able to crack it, this released the tension/compression (it was **** tight) then I was able to just wedge a screw driver in the hole and undo it, now it was pretty loose, didn't even need to cut slots for the screw driver just wedged it in...
I would guess that whoever cut this bolt probably rounded it out, the head has gone so it's not compressed against anything now, so you could already be at step two of my fork bodge odyssey!!! - Of course you have the added complication of it being down a hole, so I'm not underestimating your task
Another tip to test for steel-ness before you drill, get a sufficiently powerful magnet, stick a rod or bolt on the magnet and put that into the hole, if it wants to stick to the cut off bolt stump it's steel
- And certainly all that easing oil ain't gonna hurt and maybe a bit of heat? Man you are gonna beat that thing
You may well find that if you can get a hole drilled in there and get a small diameter stud extractor/EZ out in there, that the bolt isn't very tight at all
I had a bolt that was rounded out in the last set of Manitous that I rebuilt
I drilled the head with a hand drill 'til I was able to crack it, this released the tension/compression (it was **** tight) then I was able to just wedge a screw driver in the hole and undo it, now it was pretty loose, didn't even need to cut slots for the screw driver just wedged it in...
I would guess that whoever cut this bolt probably rounded it out, the head has gone so it's not compressed against anything now, so you could already be at step two of my fork bodge odyssey!!! - Of course you have the added complication of it being down a hole, so I'm not underestimating your task
Another tip to test for steel-ness before you drill, get a sufficiently powerful magnet, stick a rod or bolt on the magnet and put that into the hole, if it wants to stick to the cut off bolt stump it's steel
- And certainly all that easing oil ain't gonna hurt and maybe a bit of heat? Man you are gonna beat that thing
- Feedback
- View
Defender, no head the bolt is vut
hydorah, that's my thinking (wishful) and it's the weekend so if I get some time I can have a look. I have major magnets at work or can build electro if needed, but bah, i'll just treat as if Ti for now.
A look closer shows the 'lip' from the cut off where the saw hasn't gone all the way through. Iv'e cut and ground Ti bolt BiTD and remember a few blades being used, the cut hasn't touched the Alu gap so if tightened on correctly there will not have been much force in the bolts anyway or the leg and crown would have been damaged.
I'm only keeping it (Keith offered my money back without problems) but it's a challenge now.
Watch now after all this, I'll slide a thin bar in there resting against the lip hit it and it's spin around feely and be easy peasy
To much build up now to leg it go
hydorah, that's my thinking (wishful) and it's the weekend so if I get some time I can have a look. I have major magnets at work or can build electro if needed, but bah, i'll just treat as if Ti for now.
A look closer shows the 'lip' from the cut off where the saw hasn't gone all the way through. Iv'e cut and ground Ti bolt BiTD and remember a few blades being used, the cut hasn't touched the Alu gap so if tightened on correctly there will not have been much force in the bolts anyway or the leg and crown would have been damaged.
I'm only keeping it (Keith offered my money back without problems) but it's a challenge now.
Watch now after all this, I'll slide a thin bar in there resting against the lip hit it and it's spin around feely and be easy peasy
To much build up now to leg it go
silverclaws
Senior Retro Guru
A wacky idea if you have an arc welder, put a suitable sized rod in the welding clamp, connect the welder up, earth and all, with the welder off, shove the electrode down the hole with a bit of flux, switch the welder on and stick the electrode to the sawn off bolt and switch the welder off. Should give you something to turn when you get the threads loose.
Bensherman
Retro Guru
- Feedback
- View
How did you get on bud?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Damaged-Head-Scre ... 0275647033
i uesd to use these on a daily basis, but it was to get ali screws out of wood and fiberglass, better than the normal screw extractor. one end drills a recess into the head end the other end grabs it by wedging itself into the head, you need to use the drill on the slowest setting in reverse and apply lots of preasure
i uesd to use these on a daily basis, but it was to get ali screws out of wood and fiberglass, better than the normal screw extractor. one end drills a recess into the head end the other end grabs it by wedging itself into the head, you need to use the drill on the slowest setting in reverse and apply lots of preasure
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Similar threads
