Rebuilding a 70s Dawes road bike

DavidH

Retro Newbie
Last October I gave my girlfriend a beautiful old road bike that I believe is from the 70s. I had replaced the essentials (brakes, cables, tyres, seat, handlebar tape etc) but left most of the original parts (including wheels) and some are causing problems, especially in the winter weather. The brakes can't grip onto the wheels in the wet and the friction gearing is liable to slip when adjusted despite attempts to maintain it. As a result I have leant her my spare mountain bike (to stop the lack of brakes killing her!) and I intend to make some changes which I need some advice with.

My previous bike was an 80s Carlton frame with all new components including a set of great 700c wheels (Mavic Open Pro, single gear). Unfortunately it was vandalised 8 months ago leaving the frame bent and the back wheel completely mangled. I'm hoping to use it as a donor for some parts for the 70s bike. My current plan is this:

- Replace her original 26" 1 1/4 wheels with 700cs, both my undamaged front and a new rear

Her front forks are the old ~96mm spacing but my front wheel is a 100mm. I assume cold setting the forks slightly to accommodate this extra width is fine. The rear has 120mm spacing and I'm looking to build a rear wheel using Mavic Open Pro rims teamed with whatever hub and gears will work. There are only gears on the rear wheel and I'd like to keep it that way. Would I be right in assuming the old gears (not sure of details without checking) are unlikely to fit a replacement back wheel? I'm currently looking at options like this but unsure what gears to get, and whether her derailleur will need updating? I'll have a closer look at these parts tonight to be more specific.

- Replace her old brake levers (suicide type) and callipers with the levers and callipers from my Carlton (newer components)

- Possibly replace friction gearing - unsure of best option

This is where I'm most unsure, and where I'd like to avoid spending too much if possible. She's happy with the gears available on the bike but the friction gearing isn't up to the job. Can I just replace that with a newer version, and if so which? If I have to replace the gears for the new back wheel do I need a new derailleur and new gearing system? I'd love to just buy combined brake shifters for her but they seem very expensive!

Sorry for the vague points and lack of knowledge, I've tried reading around as much as possible (Shelbon Brown's stuff mostly) and I'm an Engineering PhD student so I'd like to think I can handle this, just need advice to fill in my knowledge gaps! Any input is greatly appreciated.

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You have centre pull brakes and they should work fine with decent alloy rims so dont worry about changing them. Just check the blocks are okay and cable not frayed or sticky. You can fit nicer levers. I think 261/4 is smaller than 700c so check that a 700c wheel will fit in the front and back with enough clearance and that the brake blocks will still touch the rims. You can keep your rear hub and freewheel and build a new wheel onto it but building a wheel with new spokes is not cheap. I think maybe a second hand pair of wheels would be a better bet preferably with a freewheel and tyres and tubes included. Don forget to remove the freewheel before you dismantle the rear wheel as youll never get it off if you cut the spokes first. I take it that the lever is moving itself and changing gear, what we call ghost shifting. Just take it apart, rough up the washers and make sure its grease free and put it back together. If you want a cheap rear rim, 700c and 36 hole let me know.
 
Re:

Thanks for your detailed reply! I'll look through this tomorrow in more detail, still making sense of all the details.

How do you link messages in different forums together? Yes I have asked for advice in two places, is that a problem?
 
With most of the Weinmann brake levers you can remove the suicide lever. Looking at the position of the gear lever in the photo the gears don't look set up properly. If you move the lever fully forward the gear cable should not be loose. I would think it needs adjusting and that should help the shifting. Check the cable isn't slipping after you tighten it. There are lots of videos on youtube for setting up friction gears :)
 
Re:

OK, I'll definitely check them out. Thanks

Also, I feel I should mention that I am happy to spend £100-£150 on building a new back wheel with matching rims to my available front, if it's possible to build it around the existing gears I'd be interested in looking into that option. I know that people might say it's not worth spending much money on it but it has sentimental value, as do the parts from my Carlton that I'd like to include.
 
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