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Glad you were uninjured that's the main thing :!: :!:
Glad you were uninjured that's the main thing :!: :!:
Raleigh Rapide 12 1983
- Thread starter Splatter Paint
- Start date
Percybigun
Old School Hero
Me and my brother have rapides, they are very cool bikes and last for ever!
I use the Sakae SA chainsets on two similar era raleighs, they are only 600g and cheap/plentiful on ebay, polish up shinier than 80's shimano chainsets, and pretty bulletproof.
I use the Sakae SA chainsets on two similar era raleighs, they are only 600g and cheap/plentiful on ebay, polish up shinier than 80's shimano chainsets, and pretty bulletproof.
Splatter Paint
Retrobike Rider
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Nearly there.... no less than THREE brake caliper purchases have fallen through :evil:
A reminder of the plan...
1. Keep it retro looking (from 5 metres away )
2. Use parts to hand.
3. No unnecessary spend.
keep this in mind when I get the photos up
I've had some problems:
- Rear mech fouled the spokes when in the largest cog - replaced with 105 item
- Front mech not suitable for compact gearing - replaced with 400LX mtb item
- BB (sealed unit) fouled the rive holding the BB cable guide on - replaced with bolt
- planned crankset fouled chainstay (read dug into) with appropriate chain line. This was due to it being a triple MTB item. I have since replaced with another set of cranks I had.
I hate miss-matched parts, but in light of 'The Plan' I've had to hold back and simply get it together as cheaply as possible. I really fancy a total period re-build, but I'll wait until I've put some miles on it before committing.
SP
Nearly there.... no less than THREE brake caliper purchases have fallen through :evil:
A reminder of the plan...
1. Keep it retro looking (from 5 metres away )
2. Use parts to hand.
3. No unnecessary spend.
keep this in mind when I get the photos up
I've had some problems:
- Rear mech fouled the spokes when in the largest cog - replaced with 105 item
- Front mech not suitable for compact gearing - replaced with 400LX mtb item
- BB (sealed unit) fouled the rive holding the BB cable guide on - replaced with bolt
- planned crankset fouled chainstay (read dug into) with appropriate chain line. This was due to it being a triple MTB item. I have since replaced with another set of cranks I had.
I hate miss-matched parts, but in light of 'The Plan' I've had to hold back and simply get it together as cheaply as possible. I really fancy a total period re-build, but I'll wait until I've put some miles on it before committing.
SP
Splatter Paint
Retrobike Rider
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Ta da!
Frame: Reynolds 531 with Gipiermme ends.
Lugs: Has some.
Size: 57cm
Forks: Raleigh, Gipiemme ends.
Headset: Chromed something or other.....
Stem: SR alloy
Handlebars: ITM Super Europa
Bar Tape: Hoy
Brakes: Shimano 105
Gear levers: Campagnolo
Front Derailleur: Shimano 400LX
Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105
Cranks: Middleburn RS1
Chainrings: FSA 34/50
Bottom Bracket: Shimano
Pedals: Wellgo
Cassette: Shimano Ultegra
Chain: Shimano Ultegra
Rims: Mavic Open Sport
Hubs: Shimano 105
Tyres: Continental GP4000 SII
Tubes: Specialized Thin
Saddle: Vuelta
Seatpost: Unknown, alloy
Seat Bolt: Campagnolo
Cables: Shimano
Ta da!
Frame: Reynolds 531 with Gipiermme ends.
Lugs: Has some.
Size: 57cm
Forks: Raleigh, Gipiemme ends.
Headset: Chromed something or other.....
Stem: SR alloy
Handlebars: ITM Super Europa
Bar Tape: Hoy
Brakes: Shimano 105
Gear levers: Campagnolo
Front Derailleur: Shimano 400LX
Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105
Cranks: Middleburn RS1
Chainrings: FSA 34/50
Bottom Bracket: Shimano
Pedals: Wellgo
Cassette: Shimano Ultegra
Chain: Shimano Ultegra
Rims: Mavic Open Sport
Hubs: Shimano 105
Tyres: Continental GP4000 SII
Tubes: Specialized Thin
Saddle: Vuelta
Seatpost: Unknown, alloy
Seat Bolt: Campagnolo
Cables: Shimano
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Splatter Paint
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Yeah, a total lash-up, a crazy mish-mash of parts. BUT, it does ride, stop and change gear really well and it cost very little to build. Ultimately, that is what I set out for and in that respect it excels. It is butt-ugly though
I bought: 105 brakes & levers (for safety), chainrings, handlebars (the old ones were bent). The rest was from the tip, spares box or karma (rear mech from widowmaker) which means the whole lot came in significantly under £100.
Any mods now are purely to make it look better.... if I start doing this it'll be a slippery slope! I am however slowly overhauling the original bits to eventually re-fit when I find some orignal cranks and bars.
SP
Yeah, a total lash-up, a crazy mish-mash of parts. BUT, it does ride, stop and change gear really well and it cost very little to build. Ultimately, that is what I set out for and in that respect it excels. It is butt-ugly though
I bought: 105 brakes & levers (for safety), chainrings, handlebars (the old ones were bent). The rest was from the tip, spares box or karma (rear mech from widowmaker) which means the whole lot came in significantly under £100.
Any mods now are purely to make it look better.... if I start doing this it'll be a slippery slope! I am however slowly overhauling the original bits to eventually re-fit when I find some orignal cranks and bars.
SP
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Splatter Paint
Retrobike Rider
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I’ve put some miles on it, I love the ride quality, but I like my modern Defy’s geometry better i.e. tall head tube = happy me!
So, time to move it on I think.
SP
I’ve put some miles on it, I love the ride quality, but I like my modern Defy’s geometry better
i.e. tall head tube = happy me!So, time to move it on I think.
SP
