Raleigh M-Trax Ti 9000r
- Thread starter Pointer
- Start date
Clear Coat
Hey Pointer,
I have a Dyna Tech frame with the same tubing as this (2 Ti bars).
I am going for the same look as yours with the frame without the black on the rear, could you please tell me how you prepped the metal and clear coated and how the finish has held up?
Cheers
Hey Pointer,
I have a Dyna Tech frame with the same tubing as this (2 Ti bars).
I am going for the same look as yours with the frame without the black on the rear, could you please tell me how you prepped the metal and clear coated and how the finish has held up?
Cheers
Re: Clear Coat
Hi
I only stripped the main tubes back to bare metal as I wanted to leave the original paint as a base coat (although some people have since advised that this is not the best idea due to possible reactions with the new top coat). Raleigh used a pretty heavy duty coating on this frame! I used Nitromoors to remove it - thick gloves and arm/eye protection required, horrible stuff but worked wonders. I then spent a fair amount of time with light wire wool to clean off any remaining bits, and polished the head tube lugs (alloy) with grades of wire wool and good old Autosol. The head tube is steel and needs clear coating, I also clear coated the alloy lugs after polishing to prevent any surface oxidation.
After 18months it is in great shape, to be fair I spent hours and hours sanding back between the layers of black paint, it is a 'rattle-can'' job but a good one! plenty of time between coats, it seems to be very durable and it didn't react with the Raleigh paint underneath.
The two main Ti tubes are left in their natural state.
Hope that helps and good luck with your project.
Re cost - I paid more than £30! but they can be found on Ebay quite often. I get a lot of positive reactions with it and tbh I don't think I can bring myself to sell it due to the amount of time I spent on it. Plus it was my first road bike after riding mtb's for so long
ragejefa":1omznodl said:
Hi
I only stripped the main tubes back to bare metal as I wanted to leave the original paint as a base coat (although some people have since advised that this is not the best idea due to possible reactions with the new top coat). Raleigh used a pretty heavy duty coating on this frame! I used Nitromoors to remove it - thick gloves and arm/eye protection required, horrible stuff but worked wonders. I then spent a fair amount of time with light wire wool to clean off any remaining bits, and polished the head tube lugs (alloy) with grades of wire wool and good old Autosol. The head tube is steel and needs clear coating, I also clear coated the alloy lugs after polishing to prevent any surface oxidation.
After 18months it is in great shape, to be fair I spent hours and hours sanding back between the layers of black paint, it is a 'rattle-can'' job but a good one! plenty of time between coats, it seems to be very durable and it didn't react with the Raleigh paint underneath.
The two main Ti tubes are left in their natural state.
Hope that helps and good luck with your project.
Re cost - I paid more than £30! but they can be found on Ebay quite often. I get a lot of positive reactions with it and tbh I don't think I can bring myself to sell it due to the amount of time I spent on it. Plus it was my first road bike after riding mtb's for so long
I just bought one of these off ebay with the intention of turning it in toa commuter for work. I was wandering could you tell me some basic info on the frame dimensions or point me to a site where i can find out.
IM wandeing if the frame will take a normal 1" threaded headset and also if it is compatible with modern shfters , wheels and cranks.I tried googling it and the sheldon brown website came up but it had a lot of confusing information about old ralieghs
IM wandeing if the frame will take a normal 1" threaded headset and also if it is compatible with modern shfters , wheels and cranks.I tried googling it and the sheldon brown website came up but it had a lot of confusing information about old ralieghs
west green
Old School Hero
Very nice, great refurb. To think I nearly passed it over as I thought M-Trax were all mountain bikes! I like the look of your handlebar set up - nice job all round
timitoes":1oiflv0i said:
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I saw the one on Ebay, looked in great condition! I actually sold the bike last year, so I cannot help you with the frame dimensions. It does use a 1" headset, re the shifters, you can buy adapters to replace the old shifters and funnel the cables to the BB, I just got used to using the old ones in the end. The only problem you may find is the rear dropouts, I can't remember the width of the dropouts off hand. I had to move the dropouts apart a few mm to accept the Shimano wheels in the photos, but had no problems as the rear end of the bike is steel.
Hope that helps, good luck with it.
bikemeister2000
Retro Guru
They were built to accept 126mm OLD hubs. Be carefull if you try to stretch to 130mm OLD, especially the early ones with bonded wishbone stays.
Regards
The fox covert
Retro Newbie
Re:
Really nice machine
Here is a pic of my M-Trax 7000 road bike.
Wears its nearly 30 years very well. Photo in house which has been a much bigger resto job and is probably more than 200 years older!
The wheels and Shimano groupset look pretty much original.
All I have done is give it a really good clean up, and add very narrow and close-fitting mudguards and a modern miniature pump (I still have the SKS plastic job that it came with).
I found it last year when I was really looking for a winter hack bike and all I could find was complete crap.
Then this turned up at an asking price similar to what a lot of people were asking for their cheap rubbish.
I have never seen another one like it.
Really nice machine
Here is a pic of my M-Trax 7000 road bike.
Wears its nearly 30 years very well. Photo in house which has been a much bigger resto job and is probably more than 200 years older!
The wheels and Shimano groupset look pretty much original.
All I have done is give it a really good clean up, and add very narrow and close-fitting mudguards and a modern miniature pump (I still have the SKS plastic job that it came with).
I found it last year when I was really looking for a winter hack bike and all I could find was complete crap.
Then this turned up at an asking price similar to what a lot of people were asking for their cheap rubbish.
I have never seen another one like it.
Attachments
Similar threads
