Raleigh frame identification needed

[Dicky71]

It looks good. I just wonder if the rear mech has the capacity to take on the cassette/freewheel in combination with a 42t chainring? It looks like that mech will have to put up with a lot of hard work when you want to use the largest sprocket. Maybe you should consider a medium cage rear mech and a chainset with a 36t inner ring, if you want to make life easier/more pleasurable for you and the drivetrain. Maybe you could let us know how you and the bike get on when going up some hilly stuff.

 

[Old gh bug]

Thanks for the heads up on that , I did wonder myself if it will work properly. I will let you know when I get the cables on .

 

[pigman]

From a first glance, I reckon the mech & gears combo should work, but perhaps needs a few more chain links adding to cope.
If it looks a slightly too long chain when in small/small, then that will be about right. It's a gear you won't (shouldn't) be using anyhow

 

[Old gh bug]

Yes i hope i dont need to use it but the way i have been riding lately it may be useful
As everywhere i go i am faced with steep hills

 

[Dicky71]

From a first glance, I reckon the mech & gears combo should work, but perhaps needs a few more chain links adding to cope.
If it looks a slightly too long chain when in small/small, then that will be about right. It's a gear you won't (shouldn't) be using anyhow

If you add links to the chain then the cage won't take up the slack. The chain is supposed to create tension on the cage and the rear mech's spring. Poor chain tension results in inferior gear changing. Correct chain length, correct cage length and correct cable tension gives responsive, distinct gear changing.

 

[pigman]

If you add links to the chain then the cage won't take up the slack. The chain is supposed to create tension on the cage and the rear mech's spring. Poor chain tension results in inferior gear changing. Correct chain length, correct cage length and correct cable tension gives responsive, distinct gear changing.

But if you look at the photos now, the bike is in small ring with smallish cog and the mech arm is already quite stretched. 2 or 3 extra links should allow enough to engage big/big without compromising shifting.
As it is inadvertently going big/big may shatter the mech if it's not long enough

 

[Dicky71]

Big/big is not a good choice of gearing. It might be possible with a 6spd system but unnecessary IMO. If the largest cog is bigger than 28t on that freewheel then you will ultimatly sporten the life of the drivetrain. Nuff said, it's up to the guy paying from here. Just don't say I didn't tell you.

 

[Nob]

The front mech could be lowered just a tad to help keep the chain shift smoother & from jumping off the outer ring when shifting up to the larger ring..

 

[Old gh bug]

Thanks for all the comments much appreciated
This bike has just been cobbled together with bits I had and nothing is set in stone for it .
The chain and block are both Shimano uniglide and I agree the chain is not long enough as I had not tried it but bec it was Shimano and everything else I had was Shimano I thought I would try and use it unfortunately I don’t have any spare links so I guess I will be changing it
As for the other bits I still have to install gear and brake cables and set it all up

 

[Old gh bug]

Well I’ve just about finished this, added lever hoods handlebar tape and adjusted brakes.
Not sure what to do with it now sell or keep?