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Re the bars, remove stem bolt a screw win from other side against a couple of 2p coins to gently spread the bar clamp a little to aid bends.
Raleigh Competition 1985 Build
- Thread starter AWVelocetec86
- Start date
MartinB123
Senior Retro Guru
Can't say I've encountered a hanger extender before but I like the idea of it!
I've recently installed the same rear mech on a frameset I'm building up and in the smallest chainring and smallest sprocket the chain seems to rub on the cage. It goes away if I remove a chain link, however the chain is too short to go into the biggest sprocket (28t).
Would the extender remedy the rubbing on the mech cage? Can't quite get my head around it!
Sorry for the hijack on your thread as well.
I've recently installed the same rear mech on a frameset I'm building up and in the smallest chainring and smallest sprocket the chain seems to rub on the cage. It goes away if I remove a chain link, however the chain is too short to go into the biggest sprocket (28t).
Would the extender remedy the rubbing on the mech cage? Can't quite get my head around it!
Sorry for the hijack on your thread as well.
AWVelocetec86
Dirt Disciple
Re:
Thanks for the suggestion History Man, unfortunately the stem clamp bolt is a through bolt with a nut, so there’s no thread in the stem itself to screw it back in to, I had to get a big flat head screw driver and prise the clamp open and then wedge a slightly thicker shin in, which is tricky when you’re also trying to push the bar through at the same time. I’m sure if I had some more tools and a bench vice to hold things properly I could have done it more easily, but I don’t at the moment so it’s not ideal and left a few marks, not terrible, but was bloody tight, they’ll be staying on the bike for the foreseeable now!
Thanks for the suggestion History Man, unfortunately the stem clamp bolt is a through bolt with a nut, so there’s no thread in the stem itself to screw it back in to, I had to get a big flat head screw driver and prise the clamp open and then wedge a slightly thicker shin in, which is tricky when you’re also trying to push the bar through at the same time. I’m sure if I had some more tools and a bench vice to hold things properly I could have done it more easily, but I don’t at the moment so it’s not ideal and left a few marks, not terrible, but was bloody tight, they’ll be staying on the bike for the foreseeable now!
AWVelocetec86
Dirt Disciple
Re:
Martin, is the chain rubbing on the front derailleur cage or the rear derailleur cage? I don’t think the extender will help with this, sounds more like you’re getting rub from cross-chaining i.e. small chain ring to small cassette sprocket is too much of an angle across and not good for chain or sprocket wear/longevity, if it’s the front derailleur cage that’s rubbing that’s almost certainly the problem.
The extender is only going to help push the derailleur further away from the cassette, so the top jockey wheel has more clearance vertically to the biggest sprocket, allowing you to have a bigger diameter (more teeth) without the jockey wheel clashing with the sprocket, it’s basically turning a short cage derailleur into a medium/long cage derailleur, but it’s still won’t fix rubbing from cross chaining, you may need to just spend some more time adjusting the angle of the derailleur cage and cable tension (apologies if I’ve misunderstood your issue and not trying to teach you to suck eggs!)
Martin, is the chain rubbing on the front derailleur cage or the rear derailleur cage? I don’t think the extender will help with this, sounds more like you’re getting rub from cross-chaining i.e. small chain ring to small cassette sprocket is too much of an angle across and not good for chain or sprocket wear/longevity, if it’s the front derailleur cage that’s rubbing that’s almost certainly the problem.
The extender is only going to help push the derailleur further away from the cassette, so the top jockey wheel has more clearance vertically to the biggest sprocket, allowing you to have a bigger diameter (more teeth) without the jockey wheel clashing with the sprocket, it’s basically turning a short cage derailleur into a medium/long cage derailleur, but it’s still won’t fix rubbing from cross chaining, you may need to just spend some more time adjusting the angle of the derailleur cage and cable tension (apologies if I’ve misunderstood your issue and not trying to teach you to suck eggs!)
MartinB123
Senior Retro Guru
Re: Re:
Thanks! Do you know what - it's because the bike was upside down when I was setting it up, so it was slightly sagging on the cage when in the lowest gear! All sorted now!
AWVelocetec86":25rx4qoh said:
Thanks! Do you know what - it's because the bike was upside down when I was setting it up, so it was slightly sagging on the cage when in the lowest gear! All sorted now!
Re:
I can see how the mech dropper will make sure the jockeys clear the 34 cog, but does the short cage mech take up enough slack, ie can you run big-big and small-small without it running slack like a cows udder or overstretching the mech
Nice bike btw, great colour
I can see how the mech dropper will make sure the jockeys clear the 34 cog, but does the short cage mech take up enough slack, ie can you run big-big and small-small without it running slack like a cows udder or overstretching the mech
Nice bike btw, great colour
AWVelocetec86
Dirt Disciple
Re:
Hi Pigman,
Yes you can run big/big and small/small without it going slack, although that’s not great for your chain line and wearing out rings/chains, so I don’t ride around like that.
Have done a few km on this now, really enjoying riding it, comfortable for 3/4 hours in the saddle and it’s running great, the 600 group shifts crisply and can get up steep stuff with the 38/32.
However, I have only been running it as a 7 speed rear cassette as the wheels I got had a 7 speed hub. So it’s time to upgrade and make use of all 8 clicks on the lever. I’ve got a spare 8 speed 600 hub to swap the free hub over from, I was thinking g about building a new set of wheels with Open Pro CD rims and Cx ray spokes, and I may still do that, but for now I’ll swap the free hub and re-dish the rear wheel for the extra 3/4mm of axle/hub width.
Have taken the opportunity to shed a bit of weight, needed an 8 speed cassette so have managed to find an XTR M950 cassette in 12-32 which is almost NOS, and only weighs 216 grams compared to nearly 500 for the HG50 7 speed cassette I’m currently running, not sure where else on a vintage bike you can save that much weight?!
Hi Pigman,
Yes you can run big/big and small/small without it going slack, although that’s not great for your chain line and wearing out rings/chains, so I don’t ride around like that.
Have done a few km on this now, really enjoying riding it, comfortable for 3/4 hours in the saddle and it’s running great, the 600 group shifts crisply and can get up steep stuff with the 38/32.
However, I have only been running it as a 7 speed rear cassette as the wheels I got had a 7 speed hub. So it’s time to upgrade and make use of all 8 clicks on the lever. I’ve got a spare 8 speed 600 hub to swap the free hub over from, I was thinking g about building a new set of wheels with Open Pro CD rims and Cx ray spokes, and I may still do that, but for now I’ll swap the free hub and re-dish the rear wheel for the extra 3/4mm of axle/hub width.
Have taken the opportunity to shed a bit of weight, needed an 8 speed cassette so have managed to find an XTR M950 cassette in 12-32 which is almost NOS, and only weighs 216 grams compared to nearly 500 for the HG50 7 speed cassette I’m currently running, not sure where else on a vintage bike you can save that much weight?!
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AWVelocetec86
Dirt Disciple
Re:
All titanium sprockets with Ann alloy spider I think, nicely made bit of kit and even matches the colour of the rest of the 600 parts!
All titanium sprockets with Ann alloy spider I think, nicely made bit of kit and even matches the colour of the rest of the 600 parts!
AWVelocetec86
Dirt Disciple
Re:
So, quick update...
In a quest to make my life easier, I've found a Sugino GT Crankset which has a 110mm BCD, so I can get down to a 36 tooth front chainring.
The Shimano 6207 crank has a 130 BCD, so the 38 tooth inner chainring I've got on there now is a small as I can fit.
Plan is to do a bit of 'pantographing' on this, as I like the look of my current 600 cranks with the engraved Shimano logo.
This bike would have come with a Sugino GS crankset originally, so I don't think this is too off piste!
Have knocked up a CAD model of the Raleigh logo that would have been on some of the other SR crankset equipped Raleigh bikes, instead of having the recess and a decal or embossing (there are both types), I'm going to either CNC engrave, or laser etch the crank arms with the logo, and then polish up.
Found a NOS set of 52/36 chainrings, so just need to find some time on a free machine at work to get the cranks engraved now.
Still need to get the rear wheel/hub sorted for 8 speed too.
Should make my uphill efforts a little easier!
So, quick update...
In a quest to make my life easier, I've found a Sugino GT Crankset which has a 110mm BCD, so I can get down to a 36 tooth front chainring.
The Shimano 6207 crank has a 130 BCD, so the 38 tooth inner chainring I've got on there now is a small as I can fit.
Plan is to do a bit of 'pantographing' on this, as I like the look of my current 600 cranks with the engraved Shimano logo.
This bike would have come with a Sugino GS crankset originally, so I don't think this is too off piste!
Have knocked up a CAD model of the Raleigh logo that would have been on some of the other SR crankset equipped Raleigh bikes, instead of having the recess and a decal or embossing (there are both types), I'm going to either CNC engrave, or laser etch the crank arms with the logo, and then polish up.
Found a NOS set of 52/36 chainrings, so just need to find some time on a free machine at work to get the cranks engraved now.
Still need to get the rear wheel/hub sorted for 8 speed too.
Should make my uphill efforts a little easier!
Attachments
AWVelocetec86
Dirt Disciple
Re:
Have managed to get some time on the laser engraver and done a quick test of the 'Raleigh' engraving on some scrap aluminium to check how it looks/sizing before I go ahead and put it on the Sugino GS crank arms permanently!
Think it should look pretty good - the laser can be adjusted to make this as deeper or shallower, gone to about 0.5mm and think it's going to work well.
Lucky to have some fun toys to play with at work!
Have managed to get some time on the laser engraver and done a quick test of the 'Raleigh' engraving on some scrap aluminium to check how it looks/sizing before I go ahead and put it on the Sugino GS crank arms permanently!
Think it should look pretty good - the laser can be adjusted to make this as deeper or shallower, gone to about 0.5mm and think it's going to work well.
Lucky to have some fun toys to play with at work!
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