Rainy day job...put off for 30 years

Tootyred

Old School Grand Master
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Today i decided to bite the bullet. Early last year i decided to clear out my "storage". The result was the sale of 400 odd bike parts from the late 80 and early 90. All stuffed up there when i had finished with them, never to see the light of day again. Working in a shop i had access to the sweety jar and my boss seemed more than happy for me to hand most of my wages back to him at the end of the week....can't think why.

I did keep a few bits and bobs, partly for sentimental reasons and partly as i thought i might like to use them.

So today i decided to tackle my tange switchblades. Stuffed up in the loft, when the became surplus to use after switching my old race bike to more sedate use and purchasing a new fangled suntour xc pro equipped proflex........theres another story of terrible judgement right there!

So im going to restore them.....and put them back where they belong.....(yes i still have the bike they went on new too). Thought you might be interested to see what an idiot with time and patience can achieve ( or not) from a pile of junk.

Here they are now in bits, pretty scuffed up with the crown knocked to hell. The paints faded really bad where its not been physically ground off.

First jobs were to rub down the legs and get a decent photo of the graphics for reproduction. The leg graphics should be easy, but not sure im going to get the crown decal, so i peeled it with a hair drier and a scapel. Its now in its own sealed bag ready to go back.

With all that done i " tin foiled" the inside of the steer tube and filed out the knocks in the crown, going from file to 180 paper all the way to 600. (1200 on the end caps). As you can see most of the big gouges are gone, but with all things restoration, often knowing when to stop is key! There are still a couple of marks but getting them out would cost me too much metal.

2 hours later the bits are ready for "cerakote". So its off to see mark the gunsmith! Then adam the sign writer with my stencil. ( he loves analogue !).

I'll post back when these and the rest of the box of bits return form coating.
 

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Well.....the fork bits have been dropped off with all the other odds and sods i collected up at the cerakote company...hes a star with many pointy edges.

Should be back in a week....or so......rural time.
 

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Those are looking pretty tidy - how hard-wearing is it?
Not heard of Cerakote before - may have to investigate
 
Its a balistic coating......developed for gun internals as its super smooth. Its very hard and the major advantage is its only a few microns thick......so you seatpost will still fit! .......unlike powder coat!

We used it for the inside of race car manifolds as it also holds heat and used the super slidy properties for improved gas flow......thats how we got to know mark and the product.....although that is the hc bake on version.....this stuff is the cold applied version as it wont be taking a thousand degrees!.......i pedal fast, but, not that fast.
 
Today i decided to put them back together.

With a small about if leverage with a plastic construction spacer i managed to get the blades in without scratching them to death along with the steerer.

Luckly on mombats site, there are the original service instructions along with the torque settings and tightening procedure. Very useful, as you dont want to have them loose.....or crush the tubes!

Once in they need to be set straight. Whilst there apparently is a tool....!? ......i just clamped them into a front wheel nice and tight. This orientates the bosses.

Then you need to sight down the forks to ensure the crown is parallel with the dropouts. As you can see in my exaggerated photo....its not.....twist the crown till it is.

Finally, insuring you have a true dished wheel, make sure its sitting in the middle. To adjust, just push the fork through the crown. Measure off each side to the fork leg to be sure.

This is all detailed in the service sheet.
 

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Last technical bit ..... torque up the bolts. 3nm each first then increase 3nm a round ( ie do each bolt in turn, alternating sides.....just like a cylinder head).

The torque for these is between 16.4 and 17.5nm. So DONT gorilla them if you dont have a torque wrench!

Last bit is a few drops of locktite on the back of the forks bolts......sounds odd? Well not really. First it will make its way down the threads anyway and do its job, but locktite can play silly buggers with torque readings.....i wasn't about to over tighten it and strip the alloy due to the super slippery blue goo!

Then final couple of drops round the steerer / crown junction (as per service sheet).

Next get the decals back on ......
 

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Decals turned up today from gil, after a bit of back and forward and some photos.

Having had a good look online, i found most forks seemed to have the decals on the side, not the front. After consideration, i decided i liked that better, so that's what I've gone for.

Just need to get them onto the bike.
 

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