Post-modern rebuild

DLickerz

Retro Newbie
Hi!
I am looking for some advice on putting a modern(ish) groupset onto an 80's steel frame.
I have, what I am told, is a 1983 Raleigh Richmond frame that has been nicely resprayed. It is currently set up as fixie with flip-flip hub to freewheel as well, however, the novelty of fixed gear riding has worn off since I bought it and I am not riding it as much any more so would like to do something new with it.
I understand the idea of putting new parts on a nice old frame offends some people, so apologies in advance :shock: However I find the concept of post-modern road bike quite intriguing.
I have noticed a few old frames on here that have modern gear on them and as this is something I have never really done before, I am looking for recommendations for what might work well and advice on what is achievable...

Thanks!
 

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Looks pretty nice as it is.

I'm not a fan of the modern Dura-Ace chainsets though. A lot of modern road stuff seems to have lost all the elegance.
What you have there is clean and simple. It could take brake and gear cables under the bar tape though with modern levers, and some nice pedals. I think I'd update the groupset but only so far, sticking with 5 bolts and symmetrical arms.
 
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Thanks!!

I agree, modern parts do not have same appeal as the more classic looking ones. However I am looking to put aesthetics aside here as I already have a couple of period looking retro frames.
Ultimately what I want to achieve is a steel frame that gives a more modern performance. I definitely want different pedals and would like to put STI levers. I am looking to use it as a winter bike/ commuter to save my other frames which haven’t had a swanky re-spray and are more prone to rust etc.
 
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Do it!
My 1986 Carlton Kermesse Reynolds 501 is running the last 105 2x10spd groupset, threadless carbon fork, 31.8mm flared handlebar and modern wheels. It's an excellent ride quality thanks to the Reynolds tubing paired with all the modern tech, like STI shifters.
 

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Yeeeessss!! This is what I’m talking about! have just seen 105 groupset on eBay and was trying to work out if I could roll with it...
Would love to see few more pics of your machine, looks fantastic.
 
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Here are some photos of the build stages. I should really get some close ups of the finished product.
 

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Love that, colour looks nice too! Did you have any issues fitting the 105 groupset or was it fairly straight forward?
You’ve just reminded me I need to look for Some kind of band-on solution for the down tube cable stops as there is no mounts for those on my frame, hopefully there is something out there...
 
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So I keep finding groupsets that seem reasonably priced however I keep holding back because I have no idea if they would fit or not.

Can anyone tell me if this one would work??

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124373174234
 
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Re: Re:

DLickerz":2bh1kqnb said:
So I keep finding groupsets that seem reasonably priced however I keep holding back because I have no idea if they would fit or not.

Can anyone tell me if this one would work??

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124373174234

Yes!

Luckily with road frames not much has changed until very recently

Heres an old Batavus with some later Ultegra

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With your frame, you will need to measure the brake drop and make sure you sort yourself some nutted brakes

Something along the lines of: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tektro-R559- ... 0005.m1851

These are very basic but do the job https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2Pcs-61-79mm ... 0005.m1851
 
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So, the things I looked for, which lead me to a mid-late 80s frames were as follows:
A gear hanger for a bolt on derailleur, not a hang-on-the-axle type. Yours has the little lobe, I can see it in your second photo.
A bsa threaded bottom bracket, not an Italian or French, for ease of choosing a hollowtech II bottom bracket. A Raleigh will certainly have that too.
Those recessed brake holes, for modern brakes. Not the end of the world as you could just choose a longer threaded modern brake and secure it with a nut if the frame/fork doesn't have the recess for the Allen key but.
An axle spacing no smaller than 125mm. Some people will say you shouldn't ever bend/stretch a frame to fit a modern 130mm spaced wheel in, but I've not found it to be a problem at all. I wouldn't stretch a 120mm frame to 130mm or a 125mm to a 135mm hybrid wheel, but 5mm extra has been fine without needing to 'cold set' the frame. I just flexed the stays by hand to fit the modern wheel to put the 10spd cassette on.
Gear cable bosses. My Carlton had the lever bosses on the frame, which I just attached cable stops to in order to use my STI shifters. If yours doesn't have them, you'll probably want to get an old band on pair of down tube shifters, take them apart, and fit the cable stops to those, unless a pair of band on cable stops exist as a problem solver product. It'll be crucial that the band on part is secured tight as it'll throw the indexing out if it slips at all.

I think your frame would take these modern components just fine.
 
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