Please need help - replacing crank arm bolts for Shimano LX

[goretro77]

The gents bike is here, square taper black LX crank from the 90's.

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=239530

OP I wouldn't reccomend Aluminium bolts for your cranks, steel is best to hold them on, you could go Ti but steel is still more suitable for the task at hand. And yes, you do just unbolt and rebolt.

These would be ideal and add a bit of bling.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-Crank-Bolt ... 2c5ab5ea97

Ti ones

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RockBros-Tita ... 19d631ed61

The ultimate but will probably go for £50+

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Syncros-Revol ... 2ec5bc4df3

Thank you for the very helpful advice, I just purchased a pair of these in blue
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-Crank-Bolt ... 2c5ab5ea97


Both sides, left and right are turn counterclockwise to remove, correct? I checked and I have two 8mm allen bits that I can attach to the end of my ratchets so I'm ready to unbolt and rebolt but want to be sure I'm not going to be turning these bolts the wrong way!

Thank you all!

 

[gtRTSdh]

Both sides are normal bolts. Do one bolt at a time, and use the secured crank arm for leverage. Two allen keys will only see one bolt being undone.

 

[goretro77]

There's nothing too scary about cranks; if you do decide to bling up a bit just pop a pic or two up and a note of your intentions and there are innumerate people on here who'll be able to help. Let's be honest, ... we love it!

Thank you!

 

[goretro77]

Both sides are normal bolts. Do one bolt at a time, and use the secured crank arm for leverage. Two allen keys will only see one bolt being undone.

Perfect info, thank you.
Now the waiting game for parts to come in.

 

[elPedro666]

Re: Please need help - replacing crank arm bolts for Shimano

They're very nice Of course then you'll 'need' more blue to balance the bike and so it begins... :twisted:

Think it'll be a case of fitting the bolts first and then screwing the collars into the extractor threads of the crank arms using those two little holes. Technically you need the tool Shimano tl-fc20 (which is a handy one to have as it also does chainring bolts) but I got by with two bradawls and a screwdriver for years Little pin spanner might be a better option if you have one!

Don't forget the antiseize - if you don't provide photos of them going in with copperslip or something similar you will be hounded off the site and possibly hunted down for your crimes!

 

[goretro77]

Re: Please need help - replacing crank arm bolts for Shimano

thanks I ordered the shimano tool. :mrgreen:


Waiting, now.

 

[elPedro666]

Re: Please need help - replacing crank arm bolts for Shimano

thanks I ordered the shimano tool. :mrgreen:


Waiting, now.

Start of a collection...

 

[goretro77]

Re: Please need help - replacing crank arm bolts for Shimano

Sorry for this question but I like to make sure-I understand the need for anti seize on the collar (2 holes, the one I will use the shimano tool) but should anti seize be used on the 8mm bolts?

Also - Do I just torque the both bolts down as much as possible? No specific ft-lbs?

Thank you!

 

[We_are_Stevo]

Re: Please need help - replacing crank arm bolts for Shimano

The most important part to grease is the mating surfaces between the two bolts, so that when you do undo them they slide against each other okay. Clean the threads in the cranks, wipe a little Coppaslip (or similar) on the caps and carefully bolt them up (after bolting the crankset on with the steel bolts of course!) using long-nose pliers if you don't have the correct tool...

...and I'm surprised noone has pointed out that although the listing is for bolts to fit a square taper axle the bolts in the photo's are for an Octalink axle?

 

[elPedro666]

Re: Please need help - replacing crank arm bolts for Shimano

...and I'm surprised noone has pointed out that although the listing is for bolts to fit a square taper axle the bolts in the photo's are for an Octalink axle?

It's a very oddly squashed photo but the listing's pretty categorical that they're m8 so I thought it best not to confuse matters even further!