Please educate a noob about chainrings and teeth

And if you don't know - consult this:
https://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html

Really, for a bike for just knocking around generally on nothing extreme a judicious choice of a chain ring and new rear cassette can work wonders.

It demands some research and some empirical knowledge though about your own riding, terrain, fitness and what gears you are/were using. Hence where the above gear calculator can help and play around with various options before buying.

Shimano decided all this stuff for us, but frankly and in fairness how were they to know the difference between the Swiss Alps and Norfolk? It doesn't have to be that way at all, and there is certainly no point carrying more lard on a bike that is non-essential and used seldom.

The aim is essentially to know your "cruising gear" - ie. one you feel comfortable with on the flat / rolling terrain. That gear ideally you would want to land somewhere in the middle of your cassette for the best common denominator and chain line too. Going either side of this "middle gear" is for the bumps and down them. If you land in the calculations where a single ring and available cassette can't do it, then consider a double, then triple last.

Must point out, that rear cassette (and chain) may be shagged if original if the front drive is shagged.

So pick wisely on a new complete drive, and bounce your questions off ;)
 
IF the front is indeed shagged - not sure its so bad personally :)

Yup. Time for a total refresh me thinks and would be money well spent.

I've had the weirdest shit pass through my hands. Like one rear sprocket worn to utter death because the owner didn't fix the rear indexing and just used the front. A three speed wide ratio MTB. Owner must have been happy with it to wear the fcuk out of it all though. The joy at least recovering an unworn rear shifter and rear mech with no slop because it never moved. :LOL: :D
 
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