Peugeot Record Du Monde PX10 or not?

[Foreigner]

Hi there French gurus. Picked up this G=French boy the other day and not sure what to do - strip and reuse parts elsewhere or make it all nice and shiny again. In a bit of sorry state (the frame that is) otherwise my size and love those mudguards, ideal for some winter training bike.

In short:
531 Reynold sticker (french)
Mafac Racer brakes
half chromed fork
looks like nice lugs, not Nervex type
painted rear stays and droputs stamped Simplex
Simplex S061 rear d& Suntour x5000 front derailleur
52 x 42T Stronglight 170 cranks
High flange wheels
GB stem
No serial number what-so-ever to be found?

Pics included

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Foreigner]

Re:

And more pics added

 

[bertinjim]

It's the model right below the PX 10. It's a PR 10 with 531 main frame and high tensile forks and stays. It has upgraded, alloy Simplex derailleurs. Probably early 70s.

 

[Foreigner]

It's the model right below the PX 10. It's a PR 10 with 531 main frame and high tensile forks and stays. It has upgraded, alloy Simplex derailleurs. Probably early 70s.

Thanks for the info - PR10 it is as was told the same on another forum.
A mixed bag of spec - Simplex read der, Suntour front der, Sash Huret gear levers is what the bike was difficult to pinpoint to. Forks look slightly better the Hi-ten though, but not bothered anyway as stemkis currently stuck in - lubricating it on daily basis hoping it will move. Could it be because GB stem not AVAX which I'm told are couple of mm thinner?

All in all not bad find for £15 I think. But a new crank pull will be needed to regrease BB - why oh why did they need to be so different from the rest of the world, because they are French? Where can I get one here in UK or is it best to go to LBS?

 

[bertinjim]

I thought that the GB might be a problem. French stems of that period are 21.85 mm/22 mm and the diameter of everyone else's stem is 22.2. Good luck with the removal. Try going to the Bike Forums site and search the topic, there are a lot of methods to try if yours is unsuccessful. Typically, your Peugeot would have had an ATAX stem and, probably, a Philippe bar.

For your 15 Pound buy in, you will likely spend more on service tools! Try a local shop for the Stronglight crank remover but remember that the 23.35 mm thread is unique to Stronglight and no, a TA at 23 mm will not work and a standard 22 mm extractor is absolutely sure to strip out the extractor threads. You must use a Stronglight which can be purchased from Velo Orange in the US: https://velo-orange.com/collections/too ... -ta-cranks and is useful for the 49D (yours), the 56, 93, 99 and 105 and 105bis. Check as well if the shop has an appropriate freewheel remover and then see if the freewheel is French threaded (35 x 1 mm). The Stein tool is very high quality but you may find another supplier who operates out of Europe (check EBay, perhaps). It's a bit of a trial but before ISO, the French were the only ones with a consistent, comprehensive system (metric) of threading common throughout their industry. Consider Raleigh with its use of 24 tpi and 26 tpi depending on the sub-brand. Italians with the slightly, not quite cup diameters and thread profile differences, the US with odd ball stem size and so on.

Good luck with the resto!

 

[Foreigner]

Thanks a mil Bertinjim, lots of useful info! Have couple of old school LBS close by and know one or two chaps working there now, one is crazy about steel, so will try them first.

Up to now, no major issues aside that stem, but hopefully will budge and if not I can still access both top and bottom bearing to clean and re-grease - BTW they are bearing only, no cages? I mean better for me as would not be able to fit with cages - any idea how many balls there are top and bottom as I dropped some?

KR

 

[bertinjim]

Is the headset a Stronglight or a Lightrace? Typically, Stronglight took 26 ball bearings in the upper and 26 in the lower race. They would be 5/32" in diameter. Since you have lost one or more, buy some Grade 25 ball bearings (maybe 56 to allow for loss while assembling) pre-grease and then fill the bearing races completely with ball bearings, then take out one ball bearing from the upper and one from the lower race. No cages means more bearings to share the load but less convenience for you, the assembler. Be sure to switch out all the old bearings with new ones, don't mix. There are very slight bearing diameter variations and you may end up with only a few slightly oversize bearings carrying the load. Replace them all.

 

[Foreigner]

OK thanks for the info, bearings that dropped out are there somewhere, but as you said better to replace them all, not a big cost too.