Peugeot PA10L '75 - restauration process

Came back with the answer from BiltHamber : they sugest to try first Korosol and see how it came cause my frame is not rust enough for Deox C bathđŸ˜…. They didn't say although Deox C is safe for paint or not .
Small update :
I have finnish to clean all the parts , all packed and wait for Citric Acid bath or Oxalic , then move forward to polish.

20221010_133810.jpg 20221010_133753.jpg
All parts here including stern - no handlebar & sadle . Wheels are separated ...., fix bb cup is on the frame , toghether with headset cup. Frame was about 2.8kgs.

As for the frewheel still undecided if worth to invest 60-80 £ in to a vintage better quality one, search for an original equipent ATOM which is about half price or a Suntour, or keep mine and overhaul and run it till die :) . For tubular tyres need to choose between Veloflex , Vittoria Corsa or much expensive Specialized as for shifter and break cables i will go with Jagwire, white housing. Seatpost will try to find original - idk yet which one was mounted , and for saddle will choose a modern Brooks same with handlebar tape.
 
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For de-rusting your chrome parts you might be better off rubbing them with aluminium foil and a light oil like WD40, which will remove the rusty bits but not damage the chrome, then polishing with a metal polish like Autosol or Peek.

For light rust on the paintwork, phosphoric acid works well. It’s what’s in some of those rust converters. You can find this in Coke and Diet Coke (less sticky than Coke). Wet some cotton wool with it and leave it on to soak. It’ll convert the rust to a sort of hard black finish on the steel. You can then polish the frame with usual paint polish.
 
Thank you for your imput @Jonny69 , really appreciate. Most of the rusty bits from chrome parts was gone just by degreasing and cleaning . I have a few more left on the front derraileur and some chrome bolts from Mafac break. I have soak them for abut 12h by now in like 8% citric acid solution.

Rustiest things on my bike was this : - 20221010_211949.jpg
Now more than 90% is gone. I will let them maybe 1-2 h then i will neutralize the acid in a sodium bicarbonate bath and then lightly sprayed with WD40.

For the frame , yes , will try to find a rust converter solution then polish - better to have black spots than rust đŸ¤“ Cheers !
 
Great work there.

I don't have the answer for your frame yet, but I'm in a similar position too - just need to get light rust off without damaging the paint.
Immerse the frame in a bath of dilute oxalic acid. Sounds horrific, but it does the rust without harming paint, chrome, plating, etc, in the slightest and is very inexpensive. Done 2 frames that way over the years.

Forget your tinfoil, deox, citric acid, voodoo, human sacrifices, flamethrowers and napalm, this outperforms all of them for rust removal and is utterly benign to finishes you dont want damaged.
 
Lol, is not about trust , i was just wanna to see the lvl of rust . I will clean mine these days and i will post some photos, maybe i will get your oppinion if to do it or not . Cheers!
 
I eat cakes with rubarb ...but better work with dedicated products :
This morning in the mail:
20221020_102954.jpg
APC, Iron/Fallout remover for some rust spots on the clear coat, clay bar for decontamination and some 3in 1 polish paste : cut -gloss - wax.
And the results before clay bar :
20221020_122439.jpg
From 3 feet looks way better than before . I must say that the clear coat is not in great condition, but for a 47 years old bike i can say is good enough.
I will take care of the fork too and aseemble the headset to start look again like a bike.
Cheers Sorin.
 
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