Pauls Mech Disassembly

jez-2-many-bikes":1z6k1lhh said:
What are you doing about the steel/brass inserts? They will explode when the alloy gets dipped causing a right mess? The part HAS to only be alloy or your going to make a mess of your mech there....

Look sinteresting though! Rather you than me!

You're right. The anodize guy told me that he could not guarantee that the brass would still be in the same condition after the process. It has nothing to do with the anodizing solution but rather the electric current that goes through the material. So I opted not to do that piece and just keep it silver. I've seen them that way before. I wonder if there's way to remove the brass insert and re-insert it successfully? I can't be the only one whose ever attempted this? I'll keep you posted, I should have the parts back Monday.
 
I would have thought you should be able to press out the brass part using a mechanical/hydraulic press. It is just an interference tolerance fit that keeps them together.
 
That's the problem, I don't have anything other than a bench mounted vice to work with. The brass is much too soft to be pressed in in that way. I did think about it for a minute though.
 
monsterfatuk":3anivrpn said:
:D looks super in alloy finish just laquer it ;)

Although I mourn the demise of another red one, I agree with the above...unless it's going to be green when you're finished :)

Out of interest how did you "remove" the anodising?
 
When I have the time I'll just take the parts to my local anodizer, I just give him the parts and he takes them in to the back and dips them in caustic soda. It'll remove anything! But this time around I did this old trick that I learned back in the BMX days. Drano. It has to be the crystals version, not the liquid. I'm not sure if you have it in the UK. Some other crystalized drain unclogging solution should work. The key ingredient that you're looking for is lye. I took an empty paint bucket, put the parts in, filled it up with water about a third of the way, just enough to cover the parts. Then started adding the crystals teaspoon by teaspoon. I probably ended up with about a 1/4 cup of the solution. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area and wear rubber gloves. The stuff if pretty toxic. I used a paint stick to stir the components around a bit. Next thing I know the water is starting to turn red. That's a good sign. I know it may seem sacrilege to some to strip a perfectly good component, but it wasn't doing me any good as red. And I'm sure I'll get a lot of enjoyment out of it in it's new appearance. I've done this before with many different components, and you'd swear they came from the factory like that.
Hope this helps.
 
Got the pieces back today and could not wait to put this back together. I got my reference pictures from the dis-assembly just in case. It all went together very smoothly. Wow, these really are re-build-able! I just wish the parts were easier to come by. Over all I would say this was a success. It only cost me $35 to get the parts anodized. The most difficult part was polishing all the bits. Here's a few pics...


blackpaul1.jpg

blackpaul2.jpg

blackpaul3.jpg

blackpaul4.jpg

blackpaul5.jpg
 
Looks like a really good job Itake it you polished it prior to anodizing?

Would still love to get my mitts on a disassembled pauls/proshift in order to model one up for spares/reproduction production.
 
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