Your executive summary is spot on. Brutal indeed.
I rode it with 5 fellow members of the Kingston Wheelers. We had a bad start when our support van broke down 12 miles from the start - we had to remember the way down the dual carriageway from Compiègne to the start - not good.
Not much to say that hasn't been said really. Almost all of the cobbles were in a dreadful state that was made far worse by the torrential rain.
The support from the locals was fantastic. I would probably have crawled into a ditch for a cry if there weren't hundreds of people cheering me on.
I'm completely spent now, but the faithful Bob Jackson had no troubles more serious than a squeaky chain. Steel is most definitely real for that kind of ride.
158 miles plus 12 to the start. Quite a day out.
The Pavé souvenir on my desk somehow makes it all worth while, but seriously, never again!