Paint Stripping Problem - update.

When i stripped my Cannondale i found dabbing it on, leaving it for 15mins then apply another coat the same way. Should then start lifting
 
I'd be wary of blasting or sanding a MuniMula, that Easton Elite is very thin (1.2mm top tube) in the middles :( OK to lightly key before new paint but you might get ridges and pits if the paint's at all resistant.

We often have to strip off powder coat from our aluminium stuff at work. It's often impervious to Nitromors and takes a lot of work to blast, as it won't chip easily. I've found that gasket remover works a treat though.

We use Wurth Sealant Remover (Art. 0893 100 0). A decent car parts or servicing place should be able to help, about £6 a can. Spray it on, leave for a few hours, peel the paint off clean like rubber skin. :shock: even round fiddly bits like welds.

It's made for engine blocks, so it's alu friendly. It does say 'protect any painted surface. Not suitable for plastics, PVC, synthetics' so it's probably right up your street...;)

All the best,
 
i've just had my kona easton ultralite frame soda blasted.it was in a right state before but i couldn't believe it when i got it back,it looked like a brand new frame.it's designed for removing paint from sensitive materials and can even be used on glass without any damage whatsoever.

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i can't recomend it highly enough,i'm very happy with how it turned out and if i was considering doing another frame i wouldn't hesitate using the soda blating again
 
danson67":hvvbfm9k said:
I'd be wary of blasting or sanding a MuniMula, that Easton Elite is very thin (1.2mm top tube) in the middles :( OK to lightly key before new paint but you might get ridges and pits if the paint's at all resistant.

We often have to strip off powder coat from our aluminium stuff at work. It's often impervious to Nitromors and takes a lot of work to blast, as it won't chip easily. I've found that gasket remover works a treat though.

We use Wurth Sealant Remover (Art. 0893 100 0). A decent car parts or servicing place should be able to help, about £6 a can. Spray it on, leave for a few hours, peel the paint off clean like rubber skin. :shock: even round fiddly bits like welds.

It's made for engine blocks, so it's alu friendly. It does say 'protect any painted surface. Not suitable for plastics, PVC, synthetics' so it's probably right up your street...;)

All the best,
Cheers Dan, that sounds like the answer. I’ll get on the case tomorrow at a few local Motor Factors – can’t find anywhere on-line that sells it. I assume that’s because it’s so ozone hostile!

BTW - I was told today on fairly good authority that the efficiency of Nitromors has recently been somewhat reduced, with view to making it safer… Mmm

sausagefingers":hvvbfm9k said:
i've just had my kona easton ultralite frame soda blasted.it was in a right state before but i couldn't believe it when i got it back,it looked like a brand new frame.it's designed for removing paint from sensitive materials and can even be used on glass without any damage whatsoever.

i can't recomend it highly enough,i'm very happy with how it turned out and if i was considering doing another frame i wouldn't hesitate using the soda blating again
Cheers also - Pop a question on this site, and look what turns up!

Thank you all for your help.
 
Thanks Sausagefingers....I'll be trying soda blasting next, both at work and my own stuff, looks brilliant.

As Pipmeister said:

Pop a question on this site, and look what turns up!

Thanks again,
 
that sod's law isn't it - yoou ride a bike and it chps like the paint is made from cheese but use industrial chemcal it stays put.

I have some type of paint resistance to nitromors - you may need to resort to bead or snad blasting the frame, duno what to suggest.
 
danson67":3upqpae9 said:
Thanks Sausagefingers....I'll be trying soda blasting next, both at work and my own stuff, looks brilliant.

As Pipmeister said:

Pop a question on this site, and look what turns up!

Thanks again,

Just like to add that soda blasting won't remove rust.the guy who did my frame does a lot of work on classic car restorations where it's ideal as it doesn't damage any metalwork that's already damaged with rust.
hope it helps :D
 
Update 12/04/11
pipmeister":1kq993ko said:
Is there a version specifically for vehicle (therefore also bicycle) paint removal? I have searched the net, but can’t currently find any more information.
In answer to my own question… yes there are 2 different types of Nitromors, but the tins look virtually identical.

The version that had very little effect on my 14-year old Muni Mula paint was “All purpose Nitro Mors Paint & Varnish Remover” Masonry, Metal & Wood – New Double Strength Formula". It was aqua blue/green with white grains or grit.

On Friday I bought another similar looking tin that claims to be “Tough on paint, kind to Wood”. I didn’t originally choose this version, as I thought it sounded less effective. The consistency is entirely different and has the appearance of KY Jelly… insert humorous quip!

This version has all the characteristics that I would expect. Affects rubber gloves, burns skin… oh and strips 14-year old paint too.

Hope this is of some help with other member’s refurbishing.
 

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