daveaasmith
Senior Retro Guru
- Feedback
- View
Selling the forks in my previous thread:
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=73203
See picture 3 and picture 8.
Lovely condition, barely a mark on them.
Need new decals though (or bare for that stealth look?!).
Complete with lockout lever, manual and original pump (can be seen in other picture in the above thread).
£85 posted within the UK.
I've had these since September, when I had my mate's RC300 to sell on, but haven't got around to it because the bridge needs lining up. Something which I simply haven't found the time to do, and likely never will!
Anyway, I've got the procedure from Pace guru Tim (member justbackdated) as follows:
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=73203
See picture 3 and picture 8.
Lovely condition, barely a mark on them.
Need new decals though (or bare for that stealth look?!).
Complete with lockout lever, manual and original pump (can be seen in other picture in the above thread).
£85 posted within the UK.
I've had these since September, when I had my mate's RC300 to sell on, but haven't got around to it because the bridge needs lining up. Something which I simply haven't found the time to do, and likely never will!
Anyway, I've got the procedure from Pace guru Tim (member justbackdated) as follows:
justbackdated":3n14pvhu said:This is quite common with the Airforce and is caused by the bridge bolts not holding the legs in parallel. This is because when full of air the ends of the push rods are not aligned equally and if the bridge bolts are loose the legs go out of alignment.
To set it right first let all the air out of the fork-bottom two chambers first-then top. The legs should now be free to move without the pressure pushing the rods. Carefully loosen the bridge bolts-the legs can now be moved independently to align the dropouts-use a true wheel with no tyre to check.
The bridge bolts should then be retightened WITH EXTREME CARE as it is very easy to break the magnesium and the bridges[If it is an AF1] are no longer available. 4.5 Nm used to be the torque setting when I was building them, but be careful that the bolt holes are'nt too degraded. It is quite a good idea to remove the bridge, clean the contact points and put a little Loctite or superglue on the mating faces and then bolt it all up.
Then put air back in the fork; top first 60 psi, then bottom 40psi under damper and 80-100psi under top air chamber.