Pace rc200 f2 'period correctish' restoration

That's looking a lot cleaner!

I have found this site to be a fantastic resource for finding period correct components, and everyone I have traded with has been a pleasure to deal with. My advice is to post some 'wanted' ads for the components you want, but also message some of the more active sellers - many have a shed full of bike parts and if you message them direct, they can often find stuff for you.

Depending on how particular you are on period correct parts, there are a lot of options out there for buying modern parts that still look period.
The chainset for example - you can search for a period correct chainset (and hope the chain-rings are not too worn). You can also buy new... as an example Spa Cycles have this for 72 quid. It's not period XT / XC Pro etc., but it is high quality and looks great. The price is not bad compared to say, buying an old crank which might then require new chain rings buying for it.

1700117919586.png

Then for your bars - if you can't find the bars you want (i.e. Canadian brand) straight away, then my advice would be fit an alternative in the meantime so you can at least get the bike rolling. I recently did this by buying an aluminimum bar off Amazon (brand new, 10 quid delivered and only 170 grams). Looks fine and works great. It does the job. I'll replace it with a Hyperlite when one comes up.

Lot's of options out there to keep these retro bikes rolling.
 
Nice, syncros was the recommended seatpost at the time (in the manual iirc) or that could have been another year.

PC brakes (power control) add a servowave type setup for diacompe, so they should get up to XTR M900 and XT M737/8 ease, power and control.
The idea is, The cable pull is altered during the pull stroke, so when setup properly, the pads are pulled quickly to the rim, then the cable pull shortens and you gain more control and increase power full you fingers pull.

(Later V-brake servowave works a bit differently, they don't have a path but use the rim pressure to rock the lever cable holder inwards so it increases braking efficiency. As long as you remove the little black block things)
 
Looks like you "Head Mechanic" has done a great job pulling it apart
plenty of love for the F2 and last of the all square frames - which kind of limits your choice of front mechs to braze on's

had mine from when I was in my 20's and now 54 - needless to say its a keeper
 

Attachments

  • Pace RC200 F2 1993.jpg
    Pace RC200 F2 1993.jpg
    224.3 KB · Views: 51
So we've sorted mechs from what we had.

Going to put some wanted adds up shortly because we're now after:
* Handlebars (and I've seen something in the for sale forum we're going to ask after) Think we're sorted here?
* 7 Speed block (is anyone likely to be selling these or should we just go new here?)
* Crankset- will and XT work with that bottom bracket (will ask after measurements)?
* Dia-compe 987 and SS-5 levers (she prefers these, having used both 'back in the day')
* Anodized chainring bolts and skewers (purple is a favorite, but other colours maybe considered?)!
 
Last edited:
So we've sorted mechs from what we had.

Going to put some wanted adds up shortly because we're now after:
* Handlebars (and I've seen something in the for sale forum we're going to ask after)
* 7 Speed block (is anyone likely to be selling these or should we just go new here?)
* Crankset- will and XT work with that bottom bracket (will ask after measurements)?
* Dia-compe 987 and SS-5 levers (she prefers these, having used both 'back in the day')
Usually best just to buy new, buy new chain and then you know you're good, unless you're after something special, like Ti, Alu machined wonder Nitride coated blocks.
You may find the shifter will easily do 8 speed, the 'hidden' click.
It would be nicer to go 8 speed at that point, especially for 1993 going into 1994.

just need BB length probably stamped on it somewhere if it is Shimano, often on the axle near where it goes in on the drive side.
It looks too long for the crank on there, that current crank would be similar to the M737/M738 series crank of 1994+. You would be aiming for a 107mm bb length or maybe 110 or 113 if you really needed to go longer.
If you are going 1993, XT was still in the old word M730/M735 series, 7 speed and not updated much, it would need a 122.5mm crank so that may work.
 
We probably will go for the M730/735, think the shifters and front mech are that era. She's said she picked up slightly older parts because they were cheaper but still top quality.

Would be nice to get something more unusual, but that can come with time I guess?
 
Apparently it had a 128mm bottom bracket axle... thought that was too much, but Google says such a thing exists!
 
Back
Top