pace rc100 rebuild help

[jono1984]

rebuilding my old pace.. a hand me down from my uncle, that i rode and raced into the ground in youth and junior class, untill my dad could repair the cranks no longer, and the left arm sheared off. replacement cranks, were costly and rare, back then. so the bike hung up to dry, and was replaced by an orange e3 (which was never quite as good).
10 years later.. i thought i might get the old girl running again..

a few questions..

1. rear wheel.. i am having some new wheels made, and i seem to remember them being offsett to the drive side slightly? any one know by how much, so i can specify?

2. cranks..have managed to get some new cranks from the states, from bullseye.. presume these will need machinng down to 22mm shaft dia.. anyone set up to do this? is it hardened? i.e ground or can it turned?

3 headset.. the rc100 is basicly an upside down a-headset.. i think the crown race should be at the top (interference fit) and the sliding fit race at the bottom.. i would like to fit a chris king like this, upside down, anyone tried it?

4. chain suck.. i remember it beaing really bad on the rc100.. i have bad gashes in the frame, and have lost the chainsuck guard.. any one got a cure?..

any help greatfully appreciated...

jon

 

[jez-4-bikes-max]

Want to see pics of this...

Sounds V interesting!!

 

[toons]

I'm running a chris king on mine

I had some of the chain suck guards made up (pm me)

 

[Dr S]

Hi
Sounds like an interesting project. I know a chap who has just done something similar :?

Headset. I think the threaded Shimano 105 was used originally. I have fitted a Threaded Suntour XC Pro on mine and did the following modifications-

1.Top lock ring/nut- bin it
2. The other threaded part needs the threads machining out. No too much- you just want to remove about 90% of the threads- go easy, if you take off too much it will be a sloppy fit. it needs to smoothly slide up and down the steerer with no slop.
3. You now need to make a collar to fit the lower fork race to. this is tricky as they end up so thin. It needs a slight step on the bottom to ensure that lower race sits squarely and it should not protrude too far above the race as to make contact with the lower headset cup.

fitting- slide top cap and bearing onto steerer/stem and insert assembly into your headset top cup. Now tip bike unside down and fit lower bearing into lower cup. Slide your fabricated lower floating race assembly onto steerer tube then fit forks.

Sounds a pain and it is :cry: especially if you use a XC pro headset that has loose bearings which go everywhere when trying to assemble it all.

One thing to watch is stack heights. if using anything other than standard headsets. the steeerer/stem is cut to length to suit a certain height. The end of the steerer must be just 3-4mm below the surface of the bottom of the fork crown when bolting up. I had to cut mine down as it was too long. Steerer would originally have a bolt brazed in to tighten the crown onto. A star fangled nut works just as well if you do have to cut.

Finally- don't overtighten the crown bolts- some Dufus has over tightened mine in the past and stripped the threads out on one side- this will need helicoiling now :roll:

Cranks are another story- I can machine down the cranks and supply new bearings for £40 inc postage (this is what it costs me and i make nothing but karma on them). I have a pair here belonging to cjax that are ready for return. They are not hardened but a really hard grade steel and the chap in our machine shop calls me a C*** every time i leave one on his desk

if you need any more help, tips etc give me or Tim (justbackdated) a shout- he's the man when it comes to old Paces

Cheers
Si

 

[JeRkY]

Hmm, Dr's I may have to let you get your grind on with my 2 pairs of bulls eyes.

 

[Dr S]

Hmm, Dr's I may have to let you get your grind on with my 2 pairs of bulls eyes.

:shock: :shock: Anytime big boy

 

[jono1984]

thanks for the input guys.. may have to take you up on the crank shaft machining.
i have a machine shop here, but dont fancy 'avin a go at it myself.. the cranks have been a pain to get hold of and i wouldnt want to mess a set up! would much rather someone who has done it before.
will pm when they arrive..

i still have the oe headset and the bearings are still good, but didnt like the idea of hammering off the crown race each time you wanted to pop the stem off. my idea was to use a normal threadless headset, press the crown race onto the stem end of the steerer, and use the headset upside down, making easy assembly/dissasembly..

yep think all mine were all helicoiled! to stop it creaking.

 

[justbackdated]

Hi Jono,
regarding your wheel offset; its probably best to build the wheel using the frame as a guide due to the frames being hand built which can [and does!] lead to slightly different chainstay/bb/seatstay positions.
As for the headset "listen to the good Dr" and be careful about the stack height. The original Shimano 105 had a very short stack height and if substituting another be wary of how far the steerer is inserted in the crown.
Dont forget to add you frame number to the Pace thread

er.. unless you have already

 

[JeRkY]

For reference Jono, Justbackdated (Tim) is the person to go to for any parts/servicing of pace forks.

 

[Dr S]

Are we going to see any pics of this beaut then jonno?