Orange P7 questions. Frame ID and rust advice content.
- Thread starter Mossy
- Start date
You can get them in an aerosol which come with a straw like wd40.
If you use wo make sure you do it on a warm day and pre heat the can in a bowl of hot water to get it thin, otherwise you will just fill up the thinner tubes with wax
If you use st make sure you do it over a surface that can be cleaned easily as it will coat everything internally and the excess will drain out - I used the kitchen ... It has ace creep, I didn't need to do the head tube as that was covered by the excess that came out of the top and down tube vent holes
If you use wo make sure you do it on a warm day and pre heat the can in a bowl of hot water to get it thin, otherwise you will just fill up the thinner tubes with wax
If you use st make sure you do it over a surface that can be cleaned easily as it will coat everything internally and the excess will drain out - I used the kitchen ... It has ace creep, I didn't need to do the head tube as that was covered by the excess that came out of the top and down tube vent holes
Before using waxoyl or whatever it's a good idea to treat any existing internal corrosion that might be there before you seal over the top of it.
On mine I left the frame by a radiotor for a few days to make sure it was dry inside, then poured kurust down all the tubes, using the spray from a cleaned windowlene bottle. I stuck loads down the tubes one at a time and kept rotating the frame to cover all surfaces. It might not have covered the tubes 100% but should at least have settled in the same places that any water would have got into over the years.
Leave it for a day then put your seal treatment over the top. I actually used a spray can of hammerite direct to rust paint rather than waxoyl in the same way i did the kurust.
whichever way you do it make sure you have plenty of rags handy as when you start spraying anything down the frame you're going to get it pouring out of all kinds of breather holes and bottle mounts etc...
It's a long, messy and boring process but worth it if you're planning on keeping the frame for a few years to come!
On mine I left the frame by a radiotor for a few days to make sure it was dry inside, then poured kurust down all the tubes, using the spray from a cleaned windowlene bottle. I stuck loads down the tubes one at a time and kept rotating the frame to cover all surfaces. It might not have covered the tubes 100% but should at least have settled in the same places that any water would have got into over the years.
Leave it for a day then put your seal treatment over the top. I actually used a spray can of hammerite direct to rust paint rather than waxoyl in the same way i did the kurust.
whichever way you do it make sure you have plenty of rags handy as when you start spraying anything down the frame you're going to get it pouring out of all kinds of breather holes and bottle mounts etc...
It's a long, messy and boring process but worth it if you're planning on keeping the frame for a few years to come!
fingers":c99uwi4p said:Ok done me research, I think thats a june 96 build date...
If so its already had one refurb!
Good luck with the build up
Not wanting to start this disagreement up again but
http://www.orangebikes.co.uk/main/techfaqs.php#table
this table from the Orange website states that P7's didn't have forward facing seat tube slots before 1998
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