Orange P7 1995

Re:

....for this job Spontex rules...I think some magic though is using gt85 at the same time, gets silicon as a water repellent into all the tiny imperfections.....
 
Re: Orange P7 (1995, I think... TBC)

Yes the GT85 is working well, keeps some lubrication for the nickel too I guess...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3747.jpeg
    IMG_3747.jpeg
    80.7 KB · Views: 360
  • IMG_3748.jpeg
    IMG_3748.jpeg
    83.6 KB · Views: 360
Re: Orange P7 (1995, I think... TBC)

They're looking great
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3752.jpeg
    IMG_3752.jpeg
    200.4 KB · Views: 344
  • DEC942AD-19E0-40FE-9765-4F75F8252F89.jpeg
    DEC942AD-19E0-40FE-9765-4F75F8252F89.jpeg
    455.9 KB · Views: 344
Re: Orange P7 (1995, I think... TBC)

However, I've notice a worrying crack in the steerer :(
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3759.jpeg
    IMG_3759.jpeg
    126.6 KB · Views: 350
Re:

Grrrrr.....that is a worrying crack....b++++r.

BUT....it’s in about the only place in the steerer where you can get someone to do something about it. I would definitely try to save it.
I reckon it could be tigged or brass brazed without damage to the nickel, since there’s enough space to clamp big hunks of tools as heat sinks underneath. And if brass brazed, then the thread can be reamed and cleaned. Or if tigged the slot and the inside can be filed. But that’s just assessment at a distance. I would drop into a good frame builder or send photos to them (Swallows, or Mercian or such).

Personally I think it’s saveable and worth saving.
Tim
 
Re:

Sorry ... more.

I had a problem of needing a longer steerer on a pair of forks. I decided to work on the existing forks rather than just cast them aside. They went off to Swallow, and they cut off the existing steerer at the crown, then reamed out the crown, then welded in a new 531 steerer. Of course that gets the crown jolly hot, so you would lose the nickel finish on your forks, but Swallow also could powder coat them black, for example.

So there are different options. I note in the photo that the steerer has splayed out slightly....was the headset difficult to get off? Tight and tough to turn? If not, then I would certainly try getting the crack repaired.

Finally....why did it crack? Probably someone put in the stem insufficiently into the steerer, then overtightened the wedge, which exerted undue pressure on a relatively weak part of the steerer. with everything apart as you have it, you might look at how far the stem quill goes into the fork, and where the wedge splits. If the thread is still OK, ie not too tight, and the crack is way above the point where the wedge engages in the steerer when everything is in properly - ie deep enough insertion of the steerer - then brass brazing the crack may be fine. And cheap.

Does that make sense?

One more thought...get the vernier gauge out. See whether you have a high stack headset in the frame. Maybe a lower stack headset (105?); Tange, would enable you to cut the steerer down, and reduce the proportion of cracked steerer. Again you would need to look at the handlebar height you want (if too low there are some high rise Orange bars you could still use).
Tim
 
Re: Re:

2manyoranges":1m1cskhn said:
Sorry ... more.

I had a problem of needing a longer steerer on a pair of forks. I decided to work on the existing forks rather than just cast them aside. They went off to Swallow, and they cut off the existing steerer at the crown, then reamed out the crown, then welded in a new 531 steerer. Of course that gets the crown jolly hot, so you would lose the nickel finish on your forks, but Swallow also could powder coat them black, for example.

So there are different options. I note in the photo that the steerer has splayed out slightly....was the headset difficult to get off? Tight and tough to turn? If not, then I would certainly try getting the crack repaired.

Finally....why did it crack? Probably someone put in the stem insufficiently into the steerer, then overtightened the wedge, which exerted undue pressure on a relatively weak part of the steerer. with everything apart as you have it, you might look at how far the stem quill goes into the fork, and where the wedge splits. If the thread is still OK, ie not too tight, and the crack is way above the point where the wedge engages in the steerer when everything is in properly - ie deep enough insertion of the steerer - then brass brazing the crack may be fine. And cheap.

Does that make sense?
Tim

It does. I don't really know how it happened as I picked up the bike from eBay very recently. Looking back at the pictures the stem it was pretty slammed, but then it's had 25 years to have been otherwise. The stem came out very easily, as did the headset, there was nothing during that gave it away.

I'll look into brass brazing in the future but for now crack on (no pun intended). If I was ever going to actually ride the bike I'd probably go with shocks anyway. I'm fairly sure it'll go back together as an object to look at for now.
 
Re: Orange P7 (1995, I think... TBC)

Trying not to think about that setback, on to some easy jobs

The rear derailleur needed some paint. I love the gloss black of the M56x LX groupsets
 

Attachments

  • FA3F32EC-CB88-42C3-84DC-1D49AC9DE4ED.jpeg
    FA3F32EC-CB88-42C3-84DC-1D49AC9DE4ED.jpeg
    539.7 KB · Views: 266

Latest posts

Back
Top