Older Lyonaisse Artwork Aluminium tube muffed - C.M.P. Dural "Gottfried"

[gridno27]

... here a further artwork of a beautiful old French aluminum work with low-end MAVIC parts
bonded-frames I was offered this beautiful frameset. It is a C.M.P. Dural from Lyon. This exemplar was probably commissioned at the end of the 70s by the great French dealer Gottfried Cycles in Mulhouse in Lyon and labeled accordingly...

herethe first pics of this beuatiful frame set ...




I have some builds with a MAVIC 1000 SSC so my intention was to equip it with parts out of the low-end MAVIC groups Ensemble SPORT 1013 ... from the begining the 80s ...

 

[zerogravitas]

Beautiful frameset. The condition looks perfect!

 

[gridno27]

yes and no - the frame set is in an excellent situation but the cone of my MAVIC 300 headset was 27.0 and the fork was 26.4 only, so I had to adjust the diameter of the cone seat of the fork on a lathe by a friend or look for a suitable headset - so I decide to adjust the fork

 

[gridno27]

...after adjustment of the fork on a lathe ... mounting of the MAVIC 300 headset,




...and so many thanks to Bart and Stephane from LeCycleur for these special repro-tools (... and these terrible scratches on the nut isn't from my side - this was from a former owner of this headset, who hasn't such a special tool )



next problem - the C.M.P. is not provided for MAVIC 410 calipers. They are sleeve-fixed and the frameset was made for fixing nuts. So I had to convert it from sleeve to nut. For this I found a pair of Modolo Speedy, which are the same as MAVIC 410 and changed the axle only.

and here the mounted brake calipers at the frame set ... after conversion from sleeve to nut fixing

 

[gridno27]

Sorry for so much delay - but I can't continue the build... I suddenly have a problem, not expected


During assembling the bike, the brazed eyelets of guiding the rear shift cable broke out under BB shell

...see here the eyelet is broken


...here replace the piece only not fixed



... now have to find a solution first for this, brazing the eyelet again will not work without damaging or destroying the frame referto the high temperaturet and the glued tubes. I'm justthink about it can be glued back in with a 2K epoxy adhesive eventually?!

Another possibility is to remove boths original brazed eyelets and replace them with a glued-on plastic guide by Vitus - but that would probably take away some of the originality of this C.M.P. Dural ...

 

[Helmut Head]

Hi Gridno, I used to own a CMP - I'm sure the cable guides are epoxy glued on, as are the guides on the top tube. Just re-glue.

How many people are looking more in the background than the frame in question!!

 

[jim haseltine]

I'd agree - that looks more like metal-to-metal epoxy than any sort of brazing. I'd clean it all off (not that it'll be easy) making certain that the surfaces are well keyed then attach it with something like J-B Weld (other epoxy products are available, just picked on J-B because it's common in DiY stores).

 

[gridno27]

many thanks for your comments and suggestions ...But can I take other 2K-Epoxy resin glue, similar like Loctite or here in Germany located UHU ...etc. too? When using metal coulored glue, what's you recommendation - have to remove the former glue from eyelet and from the nut in the BB shell?

sorry but just discovered similar problem - with my French ALTEC Carbone the front cable routing for the rear brake cable on the top of the top tube has now come loose for the 2nd time after gluing with a 2K-Epoxy glue.. I guess the bow of the original mother-of-pearl white Campagnolo outer shell laid under the handlebar strap has built up too strong tension and loosened the first cable routing again and again.

Someone here an idea to solve this prob... refer to the last pic with the the cabel tie fixing ... it will be better to shorten the rear brake cable for a smaller bow but the bow has to need for steering to right side ??? But I think a smaller bow of the cable will tighten the tension ?

here pics of loose 1st cable guide - the last 2 pics show the loose guide fixed with a cable tie

the cabrl guide from the other side



braking cable now fixed with a cable tie provisionally

 

[jim haseltine]

Wasn't aware that UHU made an epoxy, all we usually see in the UK is the yellow tube polyurethane glue but looking at info in web pages I'd say that UHU Ultra epoxy will do the job. You'll have to mechanically remove the original adhesive from the guide and BB shell, careful work with fine files should do the job.

 

[Old Ned]

Can you get Araldite or Devcon epoxy? In my experience these are very good - but use the 24 hour 'original' type NOT the 5 minute version which I have never found to be effective in the long term. Clean away all old adhesive, clean both surfaces with a light abrasive (fine emery paper), degrease and then attach the guide. Leave it alone for a day! This should work fine. The guide itself shouldn't be under to much pressure that it would come loose.