Captain Stupido
Senior Retro Guru
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Better brake levers would help. The extension levers don’t work well and hinder operation of the main levers.
Old Dawes Galaxy
- Thread starter Libraryman2
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I reckon those levers are much older than the bike (happy to be proved wrong). Personally I'd ditch them and fit a set without the horrible (and useless) 'suicide' extensions. There are plenty of cheap used levers on eBay.
That stem might be adjusted too high. Check for a hatched line around it - it should be invisible. Otherwise there would only be around 20mm of stem left in the steerer, which could pop out when you least expect it. :shock:
That stem might be adjusted too high. Check for a hatched line around it - it should be invisible. Otherwise there would only be around 20mm of stem left in the steerer, which could pop out when you least expect it. :shock:
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Very tidy.
Unfortunately those headset cable guides / stops bend a bit losing you some of that front braking. Alloy ones that fit around the stem are stiffer and will help with braking
Unfortunately those headset cable guides / stops bend a bit losing you some of that front braking. Alloy ones that fit around the stem are stiffer and will help with braking
Captain Stupido
Senior Retro Guru
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hamster":3mc3imnd said:
Yep good point, looks too high to me - there will be a “max” line on the stem. Important!
Re the front cable stop/hanger I agree they can be improved on but IMO it’s not an essential mod. Worth doing if you’re looking for the best performance, but I have had very good braking performance on bikes with the standard (flexy) steel hanger. Also to replace you really need at least one proper headset spanner, which you may not have.
Pads aside, main thing is can you physically pull the levers hard enough to get a decent amount of braking force at the rims? This is going to vary from person to person but also comes down to cables and how well everything is adjusted - including how true the wheels are.
Looking again at the picture they are the later extension levers which are less awful than the originals IMO - pretty sure they don’t limit travel of the main levers in the same way. They do still make it uncomfortable to ride on the top/hoods of the main levers though, and the extensions are flexy and will be very limited in power. I’d certainly replace them in the long run (ideally at the same time as doing cables and grip tape).
Libraryman2
Dirt Disciple
My guess would be 1981 (because I can't see that colourway in the 1982 catalogue and I seem to recall that the "leaf skeleton" gold painting of the seat stay tops was before they adopted the chamfered design on their higher end models).
Looks in pretty good nick. If those are the original "Grab On"(?) handlebar grips they have survived amazingly well (they tended to disintegrate after a few years).
I'd also share the concern on handlebar stem height. They can and do break and the result is best avoided. If you need to get the bars up that high (and spines being what they are, I have a little sympathy) there are other designs of stem that will get you there safely. You might also want to reposition the front quick release leaver if you get a mo. Although not intrinsically dangerous, they can catch on things accidentally and get released. The following bump can take the wheel out. Just lock it closer to the fork end. Not sure I understand the point about the brake hangar - I have no recollection of these chromed steel items being in any way problematic, but I may be missing the point.
That model of the Weinmann brake levers you have is the least bad design and they seem to be positioned in the optimum position for their intended use - but I'd upgrade them at the drop of a hat. Compatible hoods alone seem to demand silly money (£25!!!!) nowadays and you'd still need a pair of replacement pivot bolts but those levers you have are particularly good in that they incorporate the safest design of quick release to help you take the wheels out: Squeeze the brake lightly and that "button" tips into the lever body, opening up the brake pads as you release the lever. When you squeeze the brakes again the button takes up its normal position so (unlike almost every other design) you can't accidentally forget to return it to position and find yourself without brakes. Ask me how I know.
Please can we have a close-up of the bottom bracket/chainset area? Front mech looks original, not sure about the rear.
PS/ I forgot to check colour options on the Galaxy in the catalogues (there were sometimes more than one) so may come back to you about that age estimate.
Looks in pretty good nick. If those are the original "Grab On"(?) handlebar grips they have survived amazingly well (they tended to disintegrate after a few years).
I'd also share the concern on handlebar stem height. They can and do break and the result is best avoided. If you need to get the bars up that high (and spines being what they are, I have a little sympathy) there are other designs of stem that will get you there safely. You might also want to reposition the front quick release leaver if you get a mo. Although not intrinsically dangerous, they can catch on things accidentally and get released. The following bump can take the wheel out. Just lock it closer to the fork end. Not sure I understand the point about the brake hangar - I have no recollection of these chromed steel items being in any way problematic, but I may be missing the point.
That model of the Weinmann brake levers you have is the least bad design and they seem to be positioned in the optimum position for their intended use - but I'd upgrade them at the drop of a hat. Compatible hoods alone seem to demand silly money (£25!!!!) nowadays and you'd still need a pair of replacement pivot bolts but those levers you have are particularly good in that they incorporate the safest design of quick release to help you take the wheels out: Squeeze the brake lightly and that "button" tips into the lever body, opening up the brake pads as you release the lever. When you squeeze the brakes again the button takes up its normal position so (unlike almost every other design) you can't accidentally forget to return it to position and find yourself without brakes. Ask me how I know.
Please can we have a close-up of the bottom bracket/chainset area? Front mech looks original, not sure about the rear.
PS/ I forgot to check colour options on the Galaxy in the catalogues (there were sometimes more than one) so may come back to you about that age estimate.
Yep - 1982 "Blue Haze". Published specification as follows:
Frame Sizes: 21", 22.5", 23.25", 25.25"
Frame Material: Reynolds 531 butted main tubes
Frame Angles: 72 degrees, with 50mm offset forks
Saddle: Dawes anatomic design
Handlebars: Alloy Randonneur, Silver anodised sleeve, black cloth tape
Stem: Alloy, Allen head bolts
Brakes: Weinmann centre-pull, dual quick release suicide levers
Chainset: Super custom CT5RG one piece crank, 40/52 rings
Pedals: Alloy with toe straps
Gears: Suntour VXS 10 speed
Freewheel: 14/17/20/24/28
Mudguards: Esge chromoplastic
Pump: Dawes frame fitting (with top clip on 25.25 and ladies)
Hubs: Normandy alloy large flange, quick release front
Rims: Weinmann alloy 27" x 1.25"
Tyres/Tubes: Michelin Speed
Carrier: Dawes touring rear pannier carrier
Approx weight: 28lb
Special features: Forged Dawes touring drop-outs, chromed forks, water bottle bosses and bolts, Brazed top tube guides.
Frame Sizes: 21", 22.5", 23.25", 25.25"
Frame Material: Reynolds 531 butted main tubes
Frame Angles: 72 degrees, with 50mm offset forks
Saddle: Dawes anatomic design
Handlebars: Alloy Randonneur, Silver anodised sleeve, black cloth tape
Stem: Alloy, Allen head bolts
Brakes: Weinmann centre-pull, dual quick release suicide levers
Chainset: Super custom CT5RG one piece crank, 40/52 rings
Pedals: Alloy with toe straps
Gears: Suntour VXS 10 speed
Freewheel: 14/17/20/24/28
Mudguards: Esge chromoplastic
Pump: Dawes frame fitting (with top clip on 25.25 and ladies)
Hubs: Normandy alloy large flange, quick release front
Rims: Weinmann alloy 27" x 1.25"
Tyres/Tubes: Michelin Speed
Carrier: Dawes touring rear pannier carrier
Approx weight: 28lb
Special features: Forged Dawes touring drop-outs, chromed forks, water bottle bosses and bolts, Brazed top tube guides.
Libraryman2
Dirt Disciple
Thanks again for the guidance...this is a photo of the front gears(are they called mech) for short?
Thanks for the clarification of the date too, pleased I have an idea.
The reason I ask about the chrome tube nut is that the chrome is poor so it’s just replacing the bling if it’s cheap enough, I don’t really know the correct term for it..
I’m assuming that I just undo it to lower the handle bars???
I really didn’t think it was too high or low to be fair, it’s just how I bought it...I’ll lower it to be safe...
Thanks for the tip on the wheel clamp, truth is I did think it was a precarious thing, easily caught but they use them all the time now so can’t be too bad...
Ray
Thanks for the clarification of the date too, pleased I have an idea.
The reason I ask about the chrome tube nut is that the chrome is poor so it’s just replacing the bling if it’s cheap enough, I don’t really know the correct term for it..
I’m assuming that I just undo it to lower the handle bars???
I really didn’t think it was too high or low to be fair, it’s just how I bought it...I’ll lower it to be safe...
Thanks for the tip on the wheel clamp, truth is I did think it was a precarious thing, easily caught but they use them all the time now so can’t be too bad...
Ray
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Libraryman2
Dirt Disciple
Libraryman2
Dirt Disciple
I noticed in the spec given that it lists a pump....it has not got one but there aren’t any clips for it....are they normally there??
Ray
Ray
