Ok, so I've forgotten how to...

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Don't think hitting it out is a good idea using the original short bolt. If you have to resort to that, find a longer bolt with same thread so you can have it threaded much further in therefore not do damage to threads in pin and original bolt. Which you will do if you hit it when it's "almost totally" unscrewed. Then you're screwed. Besides the frame brackets are just aluminium, twatting them will bend them.

When I had to do this with the mounting pins on both ends of shock on a Marin, which were completely stuck, the first thing I did was liberally soak the pins with WD40. Then for the front one I removed both the small bolts then refitted one using one of the cup washers turned round so that the head of bolt wasn't in the recess in washer. I also put a steel washer between the head of bolt and cup washer to stop it cutting in. Gradually tightened the bolt till it started to move the pin, then do same with bolt/washer on other side of pin to pull it other way, more WD40 on ends of pin when it starts to move helps lube it to come out.
The swing arm pin is the same method but using the nut with a couple of washers under the nut so you can screw it on a bit before it comes to end of threads on pin before it starts to move, then transfer the nut/washers to other end. I did have to hit the pin to get it all the way out but only after it was moving without using a lot of force, support swing arm so you don't bend anything.

I found the rear pin much more difficult to remove as the aluminium mounting spacers were corroded on to pin. Sat the frame on it's side then sprayed WD40 into hole in arm and left it for a day then did same for other side.
 
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A long thin drift is what you need, from memory they are quite tight. The bearings can be pushed out using the pivot. I have suitable sockets and drifts left over from when I had a Mount Vision if you are passing by over the next few days.
 
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If you use a long thin drift on the end of the pivot pin you'll just eff up the end of the pin so that the 5mm bolt won't screw in.
The reason the pivot pin won't come out easily is because the aluminium spacers that fit inside bush on shock are probably corroded onto pivot pin. Just blindly bashing away is stupid. The amount of shock force required to break the corrosions grip is sure to damage other parts of frame, shock, shock mounting hardware. Soak with some kind of penetrating fluid like WD40 or as I've used as well, wet chain-lube to penetrate through the dry gunk of the corrosion. It's an aluminium bike frame, it's not meant to be hit with hammers and other lumpy implements which includes the person using the hammer.
 
How is spending your day off on Grinder going to help get that shock off, unless one of the chaps you meet is a tooled up bicycle mechanic?
 
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