NukeProof rear hub bearing setup help.

[FluffyChicken]

I have a rear nukeproof hub
I'm trying to fix, It's a rear with a modified Shimano hub (bearing race removed, cartridge bearing used instead)
Cartridge bearing both sides. Labelled RI-14380 https://bearingsize.info/catalogue-...l-bearings/bearing-ri-1438-nmb-obj143882.html
Normally I would get direct replacements if it wasn't for the fact these rattle slightly in their positions, hence the rear hub wobbles.

Anyone have any info.
Actual pictures to follow once the phones charged up.

In the mean time
I pinched this picture of the same ones

Are they AtomBomb, as this chap (Doug Johns) describes ?
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/1997-nukeproof-reactor.843826/page-3#post-12728137
Picture of actual ones from another thread, you can see the bearing sliding out.

 

[ishaw]

There should be a grub screw on the spacer to hold the bearing in. I rebuilt a few of these and while I can't remember the bearing size, I do remember they weren't super tight fitting like hope ones.

All bar one of the hubs I had were Shimano freehub which iirc had an insert fitted to allow for sealed bearings rather than loose balls.

The bearing size you need might be imperial?

 

[FluffyChicken]

No grub screws on these, I think drive side has a small o-ring.
You might have been servicing the Bombshell or an earlier version.?
These may well be Bombshell by name. I have no idea with Nukeproof and names seem to chop and change (bikepro calls the 1996 Allen key version Bombshell in the picture?)

Everything is bloody imperial as well ;-)

Though looking at the 1997 catalogue in the Archive, there isn't a fat axle and it's steel as far as I know, but doesn't quite look like the Bombshell there.

 

[ishaw]

I wonder if the spacers are not original? Every set I've owned, even the later rear with the propietary ti freehub had them. They were prone to cracking around the grub screw so maybe a previous owner slipped on some replacements. The ones on the front don't look original either, or at least I've never had or seen any with that style of spacer.

I've probably had 8 or 9 sets over the years, ranging from the slim ones, ones with yellow decal and ones with the metal decal like yours, many NOS too.

I can only speak from the experience I've had with the ones I've owned, can't claim to know if I've had every variant. Do the spacers have a small step on the bearing side?

 

[kingoffootball]

I'm sorry it's proving problematic I'll pop round with some biscuits one day if that helps.

 

[hookooekoo]

Cartridge bearing both sides. Labelled RI-14380 https://bearingsize.info/catalogue-...l-bearings/bearing-ri-1438-nmb-obj143882.html

According to the website, that's a bearing 9.525mm x 22.225mm x 5.558mm

In inches that's 0.375" x 0.875" x 0.218818898"

In fractions of inches that's 3/8" x 7/8" x 547/2500"

Only the internal bore and external diameter really matter, so I think you can ignore the fact that the 5.558mm width doesn't convert to a nice round fraction.

However, as another forum member mentioned, there might be a conversion shim missing. If that's the case then I'd expect the bearings to be metric sizes. If the existing imperial bearings are loose, is it possible that someone used the closest size possible (which happened to be imperial) without realising that a smaller metric bearing should be used with a conversion shim?

 

[hookooekoo]

Everything is bloody imperial as well ;-)

Nukeproof are American, aren't they? The land of imperial units. LOL!

 

[hookooekoo]

Normally I would get direct replacements if it wasn't for the fact these rattle slightly in their positions, hence the rear hub wobbles.

Where is the free play and rattling? Is it between the sealed bearings and the hub shell, the sealed bearings and the spindle, or elsewhere?

 

[FluffyChicken]

It'll be imperial, read the link to the Nukeproof place, he's the chap that designed them. Everything is imperial fractions. I can't see why they would use metric to to appease the rest of the world.

I'll grab some pictures @kingoffootball i got them apart easily enough, just a big metal hammer ;-) I've just got back to looking at them again this morning nking about it.

The fronts are not original as far as I know.
The rears look original, look like in the pictures.
It looks as the the non-drive side may now have a bearing cover impaled on it, but I'm not sure. It welded tight on there.
That or it's designed to sit in the bearing a bit.

It's a bit on.
Do you remember what bearings you used. I was thinking of metrication.

It's mainly the outer diameter rattling in the freehub.

Some blowouts of anyone hub would be great.

Being from the 90s though, Tab Clear shims may have been the norm.

 

[ishaw]

I can't remember the size, I got lucky as I had some NOS hubs but bearings had gone dry and were the same size as some I already had (bought a job lot of stuff years ago which included lots of old but new bearings in various sizes).