Nightmare, BB stuck in frame

Grant

Dirt Disciple
So, stripped the 'O' down to frame/forks and come to remove the really old BB. Notice the splines look a bit messy but press on anyway (bad idea).

So using my 4 foot scaffold on my 2 foot breaker I get it turning with the occasional little slip, get it half way out and 'riiiinnnnnnnnggggggggg' round it goes mashing the splines! Think someone has been here before given the state of them.

So I wait a week, order a proper Park BBT-22, and have second go tonight. Clamp the BBT-22 in with an old rear QR skewer as tight as I can, just try the 2 foot breaker to not put too much pressure on and it sips straight away :( So, fire up the big gas ring on the cooker (don't laugh :LOL:) as I don't have a blow torch, and get the BB shell hot but I think its pretty much to far gone as it slips straight away. Looks properly smooth in there now :(

So, next try will be someone with gas to get the BB shell properly warm, otherwise I guess its a trip to an engineering shop?
 
Have you tried back in and out, whilst lubricating??

You could try taking the BB guide screw out; i've seen these jam on sealed units.
Is the cup your trying to remove not the fixed cup and axle unit, and by holding with a skewer, you're trying to pull against itself?

Has the other cup come out? If so, fill her up with "pen", whilst on its side and marinade for a while.
 
Rev Cannon Dale":346ds25n said:
Have you tried back in and out, whilst lubricating??

You could try taking the BB guide screw out; i've seen these jam on sealed units.
Is the cup your trying to remove not the fixed cup and axle unit, and by holding with a skewer, you're trying to pull against itself?

Has the other cup come out? If so, fill her up with "pen", whilst on its side and marinade for a while.

The splines are proper mangeled, don't think back in is an option!

guide screw?

Its the fixed cartridge, not the cup, that came out ok! Tried filling with WD (which ran down the chainstay and out all over the kitchen floor - don't tell the mrs!), will have to get some Plus Gas or similar on it.
 
Stick the BB in a bench vice and turn the frame?

Had the same thing on an alloy frame last year. Tried leaving it to soak in various fluids, heat etc. Eventually opted for brute force. Going to make a mess of the threads though.

Have a search for caustic soda. Think some were having success on seatposts with this, but it will remove annodising, and might have an undesireable effect on the frame!
 
By guide screw i mean the screw that holds the cable tunnel on under the BB.

I think the best bet will be after soaking, find someone with a large vice, clamp the BB and turn the frame, like retrojon says. If its a alu frame have to make sure it doesn't start "pirouhetting" when it does start turning


Suspect the shell threads are going to be toast when/if you get it out.... :cry:
 
Rev Cannon Dale":3lttk5by said:
By guide screw i mean the screw that holds the cable tunnel on under the BB.

Ah, there is none on the 'O' its all top tube routed

Suspect the shell threads are going to be toast when/if you get it out.... :cry:

Doh! Stock of M900 XTR parts hitting for sale soon then :cry:
 
Back
Top