Check this:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Newbie Marin Bike Help
- Thread starter shrewedpunter
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shrewedpunter
Dirt Disciple
Re: Re:
No i'm keeping it for a rainy day and i need to buy a bb removal tool
I'll give truing myself a go. i'll order a tool for that as well
shed":2j4f3iqe said:
No i'm keeping it for a rainy day and i need to buy a bb removal tool
I'll give truing myself a go. i'll order a tool for that as well
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Fair play for sticking at it - even after years of experience these things can be hella frustrating, but having to learn each part fresh must be quite a mission! Good on ya
With the chainset/front/BB alignment, a good place to start is to measure from the middle chainring to the centre of the seat tube - if your cranks and BB suit each other it should be around 47.5m.
Good luck!
Fair play for sticking at it - even after years of experience these things can be hella frustrating, but having to learn each part fresh must be quite a mission! Good on ya
With the chainset/front/BB alignment, a good place to start is to measure from the middle chainring to the centre of the seat tube - if your cranks and BB suit each other it should be around 47.5m.
Good luck!
Splatter Paint
Retrobike Rider
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I like this thread, carry on fella. We've all used the wrong parts and tools in the past, that why we're such fonts of knowledge now! Front mechs can be a pain, but it'll never work unless the correct bottom bracket is fitted to the crankset to set the chainline in the right place.
SP
I like this thread, carry on fella. We've all used the wrong parts and tools in the past, that why we're such fonts of knowledge now! Front mechs can be a pain, but it'll never work unless the correct bottom bracket is fitted to the crankset to set the chainline in the right place.
SP
Re:
+1 for getting the correct bottom bracket with your chainset, this is more than likely the route of your problems with the front mech.
I've got a bunch of 1990 Marin's and the lower range ones like this come with cheap cup and cone units which are so much worse than a Shimano sealed cartridge. Get it changed for the correct size using the Sheldon brown link above. You'll also need to measure the width of the BB shell, will be 73 or 68mm. The frame has a left hand thread on the right side so make sure you're turning the right way. A vice can be a useful tool to get out old BBs with really narrow flats.
+1 for getting the correct bottom bracket with your chainset, this is more than likely the route of your problems with the front mech.
I've got a bunch of 1990 Marin's and the lower range ones like this come with cheap cup and cone units which are so much worse than a Shimano sealed cartridge. Get it changed for the correct size using the Sheldon brown link above. You'll also need to measure the width of the BB shell, will be 73 or 68mm. The frame has a left hand thread on the right side so make sure you're turning the right way. A vice can be a useful tool to get out old BBs with really narrow flats.
shrewedpunter
Dirt Disciple
OMG the bottom bracket is an absolute bast*ard to get off!!
Can i just confirm.. - Start off by trying to remove the non-drive side.. and it needs to be screwed out COUNTER CLOCKWISE?
No luck - i was using the wrench and the hammer at the same time. i might have to get the blowtorch to it.
I examined the bb that shed sent to me and it is definitely shorter than the one thats currently in so i'm pretty sure this is the issue regarding my front mech problems.
Can i just confirm.. - Start off by trying to remove the non-drive side.. and it needs to be screwed out COUNTER CLOCKWISE?
No luck - i was using the wrench and the hammer at the same time. i might have to get the blowtorch to it.
I examined the bb that shed sent to me and it is definitely shorter than the one thats currently in so i'm pretty sure this is the issue regarding my front mech problems.
weeman_mtb
Retrobike Rider
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There might be some info to help you out here viewtopic.php?f=1&t=98595
Yep, non drive side is a standard thread so anti-clockwise to undo, clockwise for the right.
There might be some info to help you out here viewtopic.php?f=1&t=98595
Yep, non drive side is a standard thread so anti-clockwise to undo, clockwise for the right.
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The LGF Method
Classic
The best advice I can give is to bolt the tool in place - some arrangement of crank bolt and spacers should do the trick. Sounds like you've started with the non-drive side, which is usually the best way...
Good luck, and remember - leverage is your friend*
*although I did once split a chainstay along it's length... :shock:
weeman_mtb":3q2u43no said:
The LGF Method
Classic
The best advice I can give is to bolt the tool in place - some arrangement of crank bolt and spacers should do the trick. Sounds like you've started with the non-drive side, which is usually the best way...
Good luck, and remember - leverage is your friend*
*although I did once split a chainstay along it's length... :shock:
shrewedpunter
Dirt Disciple
Another few hours in the garage trying to get it off.. no success.. I heated it up with the blowtorch more extneislvy this time.
I checked out the link and im gonna have a look around the garage tomorrow for a suitable bolt to bolt the remover tool to the bb. If i cant find one ill try and find one online.
This bike just keeps on giving and giving and giving
I checked out the link and im gonna have a look around the garage tomorrow for a suitable bolt to bolt the remover tool to the bb. If i cant find one ill try and find one online.
This bike just keeps on giving and giving and giving
weeman_mtb
Retrobike Rider
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Yes definitely bolt the tool to the bb, this is the key to not buggering up the splines and making life really hard.
If you have access to a vice to put the tool in then even better, that way you can really get some leverage using the frame (carefully, unlike Pete (elPedro666) )
Yes definitely bolt the tool to the bb, this is the key to not buggering up the splines and making life really hard.
If you have access to a vice to put the tool in then even better, that way you can really get some leverage using the frame (carefully, unlike Pete (elPedro666)
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