Newbie and New project x 2 bikes

johnnyv

Dirt Disciple
Hi all I have posted in the newbie and on my project post, but I am starting a new post because I have today purchased two new bikes :roll:

I have acquired a Dawes hand built Atlantis and as I was picking her up I seen a Claude Bulter Jubilee 1953, She was not in the best of condition but a lovely old girl. I had a quick word with the seller. I walked away, putting my new bike in my car. The next minute I was walking back into the seller and shaking on the Claude! :facepalm: :LOL:

So now the questions I have are:-

Atlantis
1. I want to keep her as original as possible, so where would I get a gold chain like she had?

Here she is:-

https://www.flickr.com/photos/johnnyscy ... 460508780/


Claude

1. Do you keep an old bike original or re spray?

2. Does re spraying her loose the bike the Original title?

I will post pics soon but I know the re spray will split folks?

Here is a link to the ebay pics do not know how long they will be up for but gives you a idea what she is like.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Claud ... true&rt=nc

I noticed the rear wheel did not match and found out it was on another bike, They look like tubs rims? The seller but the rear back on.
 
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johnnyv":y37j3bj1 said:
Claude

1. Do you keep an old bike original or re spray?

2. Does re spraying her loose the bike the Original title?

I will post pics soon but I know the re spray will split folks?

Here is a link to the ebay pics do not know how long they will be up for but gives you a idea what she is like.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Claud ... true&rt=nc

I noticed the rear wheel did not match and found out it was on another bike, They look like tubs rims? The seller but the rear back on.


Respraying is a personal choice, but personally I would not do this here. A new paint finish will destroy the original (obviously) and the character associated with it. There have been some good threads on here over the last week or so with differing views expressed about repainting vs saving (Spokesmann's chromed Carlton for one...) that you might read. The Hetchins website also has a useful summary of pros and cons here: http://www.hetchins.org/301a.htm.

Personally I would argue that the original finish is an essential part of the bike's character (especially with an old frame such as this Claud that you know was finished in a manner probably not possible today no matter what the cost). So I would definitely leave the original finish. Carefully clean, perhaps touch in rough spots, new decals after carefully removing the old ones ((as Spokesmann did - HLLoyds will have the decals) and then perhaps a clear coat to protect it.

If after all your deliberations you eventually opt for a respray; PLEASE don't powdercoat or rattlecan it as this will be too thick or inconsistent to allow the lug outlines to show. Send it away to a reputable refinisher (and be prepared to shell out £150+ depending on the colour and options chosen). With the contrasting bands and decal application shown in the pictures cost would likely be approaching £200 from the likes of Bob Jackson; others may charge less or more.
 
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Cheers Hill walker,
My feelings are that she will loose her character and I was thinking of no re spray, I just wanted you guys to check her out, so I had a bit of extra advice.

My plan is to polish, service and clean the Dawes Atlantis and ride this summer.

My Claude is a slow long term project, strip, Catalogue, Service, clean, polish, and ride.

As for the decals I was going to leave on for now as that is her character.

I have always wanted a Dawes since I was a child and Claude Butler was a bike well beyond my realm so I am just going to sit back take my time and enjoy them.
 
Re:

Couple more question for you lot.

What is the best way to clean all the metal work up on my bikes?
I.e levers, gears and wheels?

I have noticed the bottem brackets are different to modern day, do I need old tools to strip the bikes down?
 
Re:

For cleaning metalwork, a bronze bristle brush (don’t use steel, it will scratch the alloy) is useful for removing crud from alloy without damaging it, a polish with 000 grade wire wool will leave a sort of satin finish. Solvol Autosol is still about the best stuff available for bringing up a mirror finish on alloy and chrome. I have resurrected quite heavily marked seatposts and the like using these methods. Of course if things are really bad you can start with files and emery cloth but take care as alloy is pretty soft stuff. Rust can be removed from chrome, or at least its appearance improved, by polishing with scrunched up aluminium foil dipped in water; it sounds bonkers but it works!

To strip down a BB bearing you will probably need a C spanner to remove the lock ring, then possibly a pin spanner or perhaps just a large normal spanner to remove the adjustable cup depending on the type. Both of these will have a right hand thread; this side being adjustable to tighten or slacken off the bearing. If it is a British threaded BB and yours probably will be, the fixed cup on the other side will be a left handed thread. If you can avoid it, do not try to remove this but clean and inspect it in situ. If you do feel the need to remove it this is usually best achieved by clamping the flats of the cup in a bench vice and rotating the frame to undo it (left hand thread remember) but if these have been in place for years they are often extremely tight.
 
Thanks Again Martin,
Yes I have seen Autosol about, As for the BB's am happy to remove and re build. My thoughts on this is are:-

If I am going to restore the bikes it's a full job for me. Total strip down inspect everything, replace bearings and re-grease. Then I will know the state's of the bike's. I will then know the state of the bikes it will also give me an idea to whether the bikes have been looked after also I will know everything is good and needs no maintenance.

I am not ignoring you're advice on the BB's but is there a reason for not removing them?
Now am thinking and typing am thinking it might un earth bigger problems but I would rather know now at this stage rather than once I have resorted?

Hopefully my restore plans sounds ok Martin?
 
Re:

You should absolutely strip down the BB, moved the adjustable cup, remove the spindle, clean it all up, replace the balls and rebuild packed with fresh grease. There is no technical reason why you shouldn’t take out the fixed cup but you may find that if it has been in situ and has not moved for 40 years it is difficult to remove; it has a LH thread in order that the action of pedalling, or rather the rotation of the spindle will tend to tighten it and while the adjustable cup will hopefully have been moved during the life of the machine for servicing and adjustment, the fixed will probably not have been and it is likely to be very tight. While you are unlikely to damage the cup getting it out, you might damage the frame. So my recommendation would be not to remove it unless you have to; by all means have a go but as with many things in life, the knack is knowing when to stop!
 
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