New / old cyclist. Hybrid / road / MTB build

If you feel you are wanting to push back, yet are stretched out:
1 Raise the nose of the saddle to just a little above the rear. You will naturally slide back into the saddle not off the front.
2 As you say you feel stretched out, also then slide the saddle forward on its rails.

When you get a decent position, you should feel balanced with your upper body over the bike and no weight on the bars.

As for saddle soreness, with the right saddle I can ride for 7 hours non-stop with no discomfort.
 
Ah, no, I wasn't clear.
I don't feel I need to push back to stay on.
I would prefer the saddle further back for efficient pedalling.
When I get to a hill, I sit further back, it gives me more push.
I think that means my saddle needs to be further back. Maybe a further setback post.
Then that leaves my shorter arms less reach to the bars.

I have spent quite a few hours and what I have worked out eventually is that I can't work it out.
I have found frame calculators that seem pretty good but are for drop bars.
If I knew my frame angle on the Raleigh it would give me more of an idea, but I can't find it anywhere.

*thinks aloud again*
Because when I think i have come to a conclusion with that, there seems to be conflicting info.
So, I have decided that it is the Raleigh that is confusing things.
I am pretty sure that its seat post angle is steeper than MTBs and I also think the steerer tube angle is quite different.
Hence the effective top tube measurement is quite different.
I am not able to compare like for like (especially as I don't have the angles.)


So, I need to get hold of an MTB frame and build it up and then just expect to get it wrong first time.
So, I remember liking old saracens and I like the looks of the Marins.
So, do I go for a longer top tube with a marin or a shorter with a saracen?
Hmmmmmm
Phew, thanks for the input guys, I wasn't expecting this bit to be so long :)

The fun can begin again :D
 
I am going to go with a saracen frame.
They have a shorter top tube than Marin for example.
The angles are generally more setback (saddle) than the hybrid is.
The aim originally was to get a slightly bigger frame, but i reckon go with a normal fit.
The plan is that a slightly smaller frame will allow me to play with set backs and stem lengths and heights.
Then get some miles in and learn from that.
I will know the frame angles on that and so will be comparing like for like for the next frame.

I am finding it quite interesting actually. (Just a little painful)
I have worked out my hand pain now as well.
My arms have to come round to the bars. That puts them at an angle and so all of my weight is on the outside boney bit of my hand/wrist. Plus all the vibrations are transmitting straight into that bone.
(ten minutes or so and they are in agony)
I need either a wider set of bars or some that kind of angle away.

Like i say, all quite interesting. I am quite enjoying it.
 
Hmm, if you are lacking push uphill, that suggests to me that you are running your saddle too low.
A quick check is to put your leg in line with the crank and seat tube. Your heel should be about an inch below the pedal spindle.

Having just done the maths, a 1 degree change in seat angle is around 10mm difference in setback - easily covered by saddle rail adjustments.

Saddle setback should be used to get your position right over the bottom bracket, not to cure reach or height issues. Have you tried a shorter stem for the reach?
 
Re:

I hope you take this in the right way ie. the way it's meant but numb legs after 15 minutes and "agony" in the hands etc. Do you have a really low pain tolerance? Have you been riding bikes that are way too big or too small?

I appreciate I maybe the ideal size for most off the peg bikes but I've never had such issues....granted occasional numb knob or fatigue on longer rides but generally any discomfort has been alleviated with adjustments to stem, saddle, SPD's handlebarsetc.
 
None taken.
I am open to ideas.
And good question, but no, not a low pain threshold.
I have done a fair amount of manual work and there are general dings in building fences etc. Doesn't bother me.
I reckon they can all be sorted with adjustments like you say.
I wasn't aware that you could adjust so much in the past.
I am looking forward to sorting my next one out and fiddling with stems and bar shapes and saddles and making a comfortable ride.
Like the hands. I mean, seriously, I can't hold the bars after 10 minutes or so.
I can't believe it. But I am sure I have sussed that one.
Numb legs and cold feet I always just thought of as normal and always stood up and let the blood flow back in.
I have since discovered that that is saddle shape.

I am looking forward to sorting my next frame and parts to suit.
I can't wait.
It is only reading through various posts and info on the internet that I have realised that my measurements aren't normal.
Like I say, all a bit of an eye opener. Very interesting.
With all the parts available, I can make something comfortable.
Exciting times.
 
Thanks a lot for thinking of me, but I am sorted.
I have a Saracen Tufftrax elite on its way. 1992 I think.
Similar top tube length by the looks of it.
 
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