My new Highpath cleland build
- Thread starter Justonemorebike
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What I have noticed is that my arms get tired and my wrists and fingers get numb after riding a standard mountain bike for over an hour. I think I am OK as long as I am pedalling hard but if I slow down to admire the view more bodyweight shifts to the arms. This maybe as a result of spending too much time riding Cleland style bikes where you have the choice to ride with no weight on your arms.
Handlebar vibration, whilst riding a standard mountain bike requires that you grip the bars more tightly which over time can lead to numbness of the hand. With closer handlebars and no weight on your arms don't have to hold on tight and can just loosely hold on to the grips. In some instances just rest your fingers on the top of them ready to quickly grab them if required.
I, despite qualifying as having an older back, have never had back trouble as a result of cycling.M-Power":3a3qrxh9 said:
What I have noticed is that my arms get tired and my wrists and fingers get numb after riding a standard mountain bike for over an hour. I think I am OK as long as I am pedalling hard but if I slow down to admire the view more bodyweight shifts to the arms. This maybe as a result of spending too much time riding Cleland style bikes where you have the choice to ride with no weight on your arms.
Handlebar vibration, whilst riding a standard mountain bike requires that you grip the bars more tightly which over time can lead to numbness of the hand. With closer handlebars and no weight on your arms don't have to hold on tight and can just loosely hold on to the grips. In some instances just rest your fingers on the top of them ready to quickly grab them if required.
Justonemorebike
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Graham, yes I have noticed that. Also I find I see a lot of interesting wildlife I missed when riding my usual bike. I also find the look on van and 4x4 drivers faces amusing as you ride at the same eye level.
Graham, yes I have noticed that. Also I find I see a lot of interesting wildlife I missed when riding my usual bike. I also find the look on van and 4x4 drivers faces amusing as you ride at the same eye level.
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If using inner-tubes, in order to run the tyres at very low pressures you need wide inner tubes whos surface does not need to stretch before it touches the inside of the tyre. There are two reasons for this:
1/ so that all of the air pressure in the tube supports the sidewall (narrow tubes might require 20psi before the tube even touches the tyre)
2/ a thorn entering a tube that is not stretched is less likely to let out air than one that enters a stretched tube (this uses the same principle as attaching Sellotape onto the surface of a balloon then sticking a pin into the Sellotape will not burst the balloon or let the air escape.
Running tyres at very low pressures risks the tyre sliding on the rim causing tube valve damage or even ripping the valve from the tube. To prevent the tyre from slipping you need to use wide and thick rubber rim tape or build up the rim by winding electrical tape round and around until the tyre is a tight fit. This can of course make tyre fitting and removal difficult. Rims where the centre of the inner rim is a larger diameter than the outside are best as the tyre bead can be lossened by pushing it towards the centre of the rim.
Alternatively you can use tubeless rims and tyre combinations, but remounting them on the rim after a puncture repair using a standard bicycle pump is hard work.
I am impressed by how aestheticaly pleasing and modern this build looks. A Cleland/Highpath is effectively a fat-tyre Dutch roadster with the geometry componentry and structure modified to improve off-road performance. Making such a tall bike look in any way contemporary is not easy.
I use Schwalbe tyres fitted with their 'snakeskin' side-wall reinforcement. Their standard sidewalls can't take the strain of the tyres being run at low pressures and will eventually rip.Justonemorebike":17wt364v said:
If using inner-tubes, in order to run the tyres at very low pressures you need wide inner tubes whos surface does not need to stretch before it touches the inside of the tyre. There are two reasons for this:
1/ so that all of the air pressure in the tube supports the sidewall (narrow tubes might require 20psi before the tube even touches the tyre)
2/ a thorn entering a tube that is not stretched is less likely to let out air than one that enters a stretched tube (this uses the same principle as attaching Sellotape onto the surface of a balloon then sticking a pin into the Sellotape will not burst the balloon or let the air escape.
Running tyres at very low pressures risks the tyre sliding on the rim causing tube valve damage or even ripping the valve from the tube. To prevent the tyre from slipping you need to use wide and thick rubber rim tape or build up the rim by winding electrical tape round and around until the tyre is a tight fit. This can of course make tyre fitting and removal difficult. Rims where the centre of the inner rim is a larger diameter than the outside are best as the tyre bead can be lossened by pushing it towards the centre of the rim.
Alternatively you can use tubeless rims and tyre combinations, but remounting them on the rim after a puncture repair using a standard bicycle pump is hard work.
I am impressed by how aestheticaly pleasing and modern this build looks. A Cleland/Highpath is effectively a fat-tyre Dutch roadster with the geometry componentry and structure modified to improve off-road performance. Making such a tall bike look in any way contemporary is not easy.
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