My Muddys

mrgumby":1n23xuuo said:
Most are faded and worth £25, some have spent their life in the dark and still have the bright neon. The non faded ones are worth between £80 and £120 i reckon.
drcarlos?

Yes, a fair estimate I think Matt. I sold my '89 Courier Comp for £85 in the end but it had a pretty much mint and complete Mountain LX group on it, with top paint it would have bee worth over £100.

Carl.
 
Thanks for that mrgumby. I have had a Muddy Fox Courier Comp sitting in the garage doing nothing for the last 20+ years. I know nothing about bikes at all...I was just really lucky to own such a cool bike when I was a teenager. Maybe time to think about letting it go to someone who'll really appreciate it.
 
bobcatbike":15k59jwx said:
Is there a way to find out the actual year of the bike or do you simply remember the year you bought it?

I just kept searching the name and variations of 'Muddy Fox' and 'brochure' 'range' and 'catalogue' - most of my searches led me here, and here I may stay :)

Still don't know anything about the Trailblazer mind you. I think it's from the years the brand was going downhill - there are no Tange stickers on it and no paw print stamped on it.
 
Update

Seeker - bike collected from bikeshop with new bottom bracket (old one was a sod to get out, apparently, which makes me feel better about not being able to shift it myself). XCE crank temporarily removed pending a left-hand one turning up on eBay. Cheap triple from decathlon from the parts bin fitted and front derallieur dropped half an inch because the cogs are smaller (which means the chain is slightly too long, but we're only going for a low-speed family potter today, so chances are there will be no gear changes anyway - certainly not to the granny). Gear cables changed so you can actually change gear if you want to - the old outers were Suntour branded so may have been original. They were definitely full of high-friction gunk. It's even got Dia Compe brake blocks I've noticed. I really like this bike - shame it's not mine. Oh, and our dear daughter insisted that "mummy needs a bell" so it has one of those, too.

Pathfinder - bought cantilever brake pads to fix the squeak - the wrong sort though (not sure on the terminology, but I got the ones with the grooved post rather than ones with a bolt on the end) As a temporary fix I've swapped the front and back pads because the back ones were decent. I'll not use the back brake - simple :) The headset is a little loose on it, but I don't have a big enough spanner at the moment. I think it may also have the wrong size inner tube in the front as it keep revolving; the valve is at quite a jaunty angle and I've already shuffled it back once. Will pick up a spare inner tube when I swap the pads for the correct ones.

Trailblazer: it's still there.
 
The pads should be 'toe in first' to remove the squeak..

keep the original ones and try turning them 180, see if that helps?

Or junk the brakes and get some better ones. I sold my seeker in the end cos the brakes were so bad (i didn't want to change/split the bike..)
 
mrgumby":wf027vf2 said:
The pads should be 'toe in first' to remove the squeak..

keep the original ones and try turning them 180, see if that helps?

Or junk the brakes and get some better ones. I sold my seeker in the end cos the brakes were so bad (i didn't want to change/split the bike..)

The brakes were ok with the swap, and will be better again (as in quieter) now I've tightened the headset with a borrowed spanner I hope - it was all very clean and well greased, and not worn, which was nice.

I've had the stem/steerer off and that was also lovely and clean, so the 1989 one will be an easy fit. Removing the stem/steerer from the Trailblazer (which will get the one that is currently on the pathfinder) has not gone so well. It's now doused in WD-40 in the corner of the shed in disgrace. I've read that if that doesn't shift it, Coke will attack rust pretty well, so to dribble some of that in every now and again over a few hours, then hit it. I may end up trying this.
 
Re:

I've finally got around to changing the stem. Thanks again Mr Gumby.

So what was this:


Is now this:



The proper stem has about an inch more reach I reckon, which is good because the bike felt a bit short to me, but I just put that down to being more used to a road bike. I'm certain the bars are not original either - the bars on my OHs Explorer are shorter and straighter, as I think these should be. I probably should have shortened the cable outer a bit too, but I always squash them because my clippers are old, so I left it.

The old ahead converter stem will go on the Trailblazer 700c frame when I've got the old stem out and re-painted it. I have some drop bars for it but they are 31.8mm so I will need a different bar holding bit of stem.

(and excuse the mess in the kitchen)

EDIT - to confirm what the tape measure said - it was a snug fit width-ways in the car. I can confirm that it's now a *very* snug fit. But it does still fit, which is good as it means I don't have to fold the seats everytime.
 
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