My Budget Wheel Build

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Cheers - didn't think there was
anything specific for disk hubs
regarding the leading / trailing
spokes. Learned something today
then.

I assume these are 3 cross.
 
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I am keeping it simple, 3 cross, 2mm spokes and eyeleted rims. (I have compromised on 32 spokes as 36 just seemed excessive :?) - apparently all needed for a disc brake if you want a reliable wheel (according to the internet). Plus DB spokes cost a whole lot more.... and I am no light weight either...
 
Excellent post and i'm certainly going to give this a go next year sometime after i've made a stand although tbh it does seem a bit daunting but obviously well worth learning and from what i can understand it's harder to true a badly buckled wheel then it is to build one ..
 
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The weather here is rubbish so all outside activity is off, at least this gave me the excuse to complete my rear wheel. I needed another improvised truing stand due to the extra width of the rear axle..



Again I was astonished to see that the dishing I set by eye was within 2mm. I am now at the point where both wheels appear to be ready for use, I will allow them to rest till the weekend when I will do one more stress relieve on them and check for true. From there it will be on the bike and a tarmac road test, if all looks good I will leave them on for 20/30 miles before mounting them back in my truing stands to check.

That leaves me today passing time waiting for the rain to stop, so I started putting together the new front end for Coyote Ugly :D

 
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Looks like this thread is to end much sooner than I thought, today I had the opportunity to rebuild the front end of Coyote Ugly. New Speeddial7 levers, lock on grips, I went back to the flat bars as the riser bars I bought on here just don't do it for me, new Rockshox 30 Gold forks and a BB7 disc caliper with HS1 rotor along with the new front wheel I built :D .



Test ride round the block revealed no noticeable flexing of the wheel, and the only "ping" I heard was as I rode it off the first high kerb I could find.

Back home I fitted the rear wheel I built and again went for a test ride round the block, only difference was this time there was no "Ping".



As stated previously, I will give them 20 - 30 miles and then recheck tension & true. For now I declare my "Winter Project" a success. Oh yes I now need more components to build another pair of wheels due to my "Winter Project" becoming a "Wet August Project".... :roll:
 
Well done mate that's awesome work and you deserve some decent weather so you can get the 1st 10-15 miles chalked up ;) ..
 
Nice job on the build. A Park spoke wrench (like the SW-1) would probably be a lot easier to use than that DT spoke wrench.
 
sancho":20seg4xs said:
Nice job on the build. A Park spoke wrench (like the SW-1) would probably be a lot easier to use than that DT spoke wrench.

Thanks, I am feeling pretty smug about the build :).

The spoke key has the brand "Spokey" on it, and to be honest I got on really well with it. Fitted well and not a single slip.
 
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Today I discovered the difference between professionally built wheels and my home built wheels. I thought the back end felt a little loose and put it down to low tyre pressure, but it wasn't. I guess the nipples had set into their seats, the spoke elbows had settled into the hub and the spokes themselves had stretched., or I didn't tension them high enough :oops: .

Whatever the drive side spokes in the rear wheel had lost the tension I had originally set. Best bit is when you have built the wheel re-tensioning is so easy. Whipped the tyre and rim tape off, put a 1/8th turn on every spoke and then corrected alignment, back on the bike and it took less than 20 minutes.

I am so ready to build my next set of wheels :D .
 
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Did you stress relieve the wheel as you built it?

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zeyr-brECm4[/youtube]
 
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