Motorcycle recommission project - Suzuki GS750

[novocaine]

These folks do wiring supplies that won't break the bank. I have a decent crimp tool already. I am tempted to lay the current loom out on a board and try and copy it. That still leaves the OEM soldered wiring on things like the switchgear though. Need to think on it but all advice welcome - 100% on old wiring being a brittle liability.

I've been quoted £180 for a frame and swingarm powdercoat in black. I will really need to trust the coater as I've had a totally sh*t PC job on my Peugeot Triahtlon frame that was chip city. I vowed never to get a bike powdercoated again as its so hard to get off it it goes wrong.

I see lots of cafe racer type conversions yeah - most are horrible and they've hacksawed a perfectly good frame to get crappy results. Prices for some bits can be nuts.

Yer, fittings and fixtures can be had for cheap which is a bonus. It's finding all the right colours that's always been prohibitive for me. I've done a few copies, not that hard to do, take lots of pictures, label everything, one wire at a time, leave the rest in the sleeve (snip along the sleeve so you can do this) or use backwards cable ties to keep wires in place.
Switchgear looms you leave till last. Soldering, practice makes perfect, on this they will all be through hole so that's a positive. A decent iron with a 4mm chisel tip to keep the heat and some flux to help with the old pads and you'll be set.

The worst I've ever had to do was a ducati supersport.

 

[LondonClassic]

Switchgear looms you leave till last. Soldering, practice makes perfect, on this they will all be through hole so that's a positive. A decent iron with a 4mm chisel tip to keep the heat and some flux to help with the old pads and you'll be set.

The worst I've ever had to do was a ducati supersport.

I think I'll be coming to you with more questions down the line.

 

[sickpup]

There's no need to change the loom if there are no problems. Like wise the Switchgear.
GS750 iirc like most Suzukis until the mid to late 90s uses Sumitomo .110 connectors also known as 2.8mm connectors, these are commonly available in the UK from places like Vehicle wiring products who also sell the coloured cables and other sundries.

 

[LondonClassic]

For the sake of £30-40 of wiring materials it makes sense to me with the loom and switchgear off to try and make a new 'un. I know the one on there works but several places look a tad dodge (stator to regulator connectors). If I'm too incompetent to make a replica I have the old one to fall back on.

 

[LondonClassic]

Got the motor out. Needed to remove the coils, clamp the loom out of the way and remove the rocker cover breather. Then it was kind of shufflable using this guy's method.




Its a serious lump! Maybe the GS1000 engine weighs less cos the holes are bigger?

 

[Tootyred]

Are you going in?

 

[LondonClassic]

Are you going in?

Not if I can help it. Valve checks, lube the camchain tensioner, clean the sump and oil pump...was hoping to get away with that. The outside is bloody minging so cleaning that will eat time. Engine sounded pretty good last time it ran. Compression was low to start with as it had been standing and the rings were gummed. It got better though.

 

[LondonClassic]

Doesn't look like loads of progress but got bogged down in front brake calipers. Pistons are totally seized in both calipers as is one bleed nipple and the L side caliper has a bolt where the bleed nipple should be (!). Both calipers have been put in the too hard basket for later.

And had to go to war with one fricking snapped bolt holding on the rear mudguard. A cheapo screwfix bolt extractor bit snapped in the hole I drilled . That too now needs to be drilled out and the thread re-tapped. I'm not moaning, I've got away lightly so far (touch wood).

Despite copious cleaning before bringing her into the house she continued to leak grime and kipple every time I look at her. There is just so much inground dirt. A fairly large spider crawled out from the inside of one brake caliper.

And my 10.99 Amazon 'hobby vice' finally gave out today. Time for a grown up one.

 

[Guinessisgoodforyou]

I don't personally use screw extractors, as it's usually a trip to the spark eroders to remove an easyout out when they break. You might be lucky fingers crossed.

 

[LondonClassic]

I have zero experience of spark eroders. Would the heat not compromise the weld holding the fixings to the frame? I'm going to drill through the M6 mess with an M5 bit and then hope the remaining meat doesn't resist a retap too much. If it all goes wrong I will just use a slightly longer bolt with a nut on the other side.