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Re: Mk2 Raleigh Bomber 1983 restoration project
Can't you put your updates on here rather than linking to another site?
Can't you put your updates on here rather than linking to another site?
Mk2 Raleigh Bomber 1983 restoration project FINISHED
- Thread starter Dead Rats
- Start date
Re: Mk2 Raleigh Bomber 1983 restoration project
Yep, apologies!
Here's a resume of the resto so far!
Firstly some shots of the first strip-down session… the plastic brake lever shrouds proved very tough to remove and the driveside cotterpin was rather reluctant to to leave home but there were no really major issues to report.
However, may have to re-tap the threads at the rear of the chainstay (for the bolt on seatstays) as the bolts came out looking 'a bit' stripped, and the holes at the top of the seatstays are looking a little mashed – but nothing worse than expected...
Sturmey-Archer detail... parts from the rear hub after a good clean. The axle feels fine and dandy after a brief cone twiddle, so hopefully not going have to go in deeper!
The next photos show the frame and parts almost ready for refinishing and were taken on a freezing morning in late November! I gently levered out the crushed seatpost clamp area (which is in fact threaded on the driveside) and just needed to remove the headbadge and the ‘dimples’ (aka ‘thimbles’) in the original fork’s crown. In the end they came out using this method:
http://www.raleighgrifter.proboards.com ... hread=714#
Also pictured are the front brake pads clips and the Renthal bar brace (which is going to be powdercoated black with polished clamp and new bolts) and the stem (ditto but with black clamps). The frame number is NE3022591 which I believe means…
N = Nottingham
E = April
3 = 1983
022591 = unit number
Next, with a few exceptions (wheels, saddle, handlebars, brakes and of course all the parts that are being painted) here’s all of Lemmy’s parts cleaned up and ready to go. New chain, grips, cables, cotterpins, bar ends and bar clamp bolts with restored original headbadge, headset, BB, cranks, pie plate. Also shown are the NOS pedals with restored rear wheel fittings and brake lever clamps, plus new decals and stem bolts with restored original quill bolt and reflector. Mike already had the saddle rail clamp re-zinc-plated.
Finally got Lemmy stripped in late January... I love seeing frames in this state, 'admiring' the brazing on this was fun.
I lightly filed and sanded worst of Lemmy's many imperfections down in the boot of my friends car and took him off to be powdercoated by Will & Pete at Sprayquick in Bredbury...
Meanwhile I got the brakes ready… and here they are, all cleaned up and polished (with new leather faced pads, restored fork braces – NOS rubber sheaths are in the post from a cool guy on eBay – a red alu washer by Weinmann that I turned around, and one adjuster replaced). Typically for the era, the adjusters and main central bolts feature Raleigh’s proprietary threading – so replacements nuts are like hen’s teeth! Excuse rubbish pic with intense flash!
And here's the wheels polished up, pictured before I rebuilt the hubs and fitted the new tyres...
Rob Atkin":roxwbm7g said:
Yep, apologies!
Here's a resume of the resto so far!
Firstly some shots of the first strip-down session… the plastic brake lever shrouds proved very tough to remove and the driveside cotterpin was rather reluctant to to leave home but there were no really major issues to report.
However, may have to re-tap the threads at the rear of the chainstay (for the bolt on seatstays) as the bolts came out looking 'a bit' stripped, and the holes at the top of the seatstays are looking a little mashed – but nothing worse than expected...
Sturmey-Archer detail... parts from the rear hub after a good clean. The axle feels fine and dandy after a brief cone twiddle, so hopefully not going have to go in deeper!
The next photos show the frame and parts almost ready for refinishing and were taken on a freezing morning in late November! I gently levered out the crushed seatpost clamp area (which is in fact threaded on the driveside) and just needed to remove the headbadge and the ‘dimples’ (aka ‘thimbles’) in the original fork’s crown. In the end they came out using this method:
http://www.raleighgrifter.proboards.com ... hread=714#
Also pictured are the front brake pads clips and the Renthal bar brace (which is going to be powdercoated black with polished clamp and new bolts) and the stem (ditto but with black clamps). The frame number is NE3022591 which I believe means…
N = Nottingham
E = April
3 = 1983
022591 = unit number
Next, with a few exceptions (wheels, saddle, handlebars, brakes and of course all the parts that are being painted) here’s all of Lemmy’s parts cleaned up and ready to go. New chain, grips, cables, cotterpins, bar ends and bar clamp bolts with restored original headbadge, headset, BB, cranks, pie plate. Also shown are the NOS pedals with restored rear wheel fittings and brake lever clamps, plus new decals and stem bolts with restored original quill bolt and reflector. Mike already had the saddle rail clamp re-zinc-plated.
Finally got Lemmy stripped in late January... I love seeing frames in this state, 'admiring' the brazing on this was fun.
I lightly filed and sanded worst of Lemmy's many imperfections down in the boot of my friends car and took him off to be powdercoated by Will & Pete at Sprayquick in Bredbury...
Meanwhile I got the brakes ready… and here they are, all cleaned up and polished (with new leather faced pads, restored fork braces – NOS rubber sheaths are in the post from a cool guy on eBay – a red alu washer by Weinmann that I turned around, and one adjuster replaced). Typically for the era, the adjusters and main central bolts feature Raleigh’s proprietary threading – so replacements nuts are like hen’s teeth! Excuse rubbish pic with intense flash!
And here's the wheels polished up, pictured before I rebuilt the hubs and fitted the new tyres...
Re: Mk2 Raleigh Bomber 1983 restoration project *PICS*
Frame and bits are back from powdercoating, have to say Sprayquick have done me proud once again! Will get some pics up over the weekend, too dark now... this weekend's jobs include applying Framesaver treatment, then bolting the rear end together and refitting the headbadge. Then I'll hopefully be applying the decals and fitting the headset, bottom bracket, seatpost & clamp, as well as the fork thimbles and the rebuilding the stem with new clamp bolts. It's such a nice feeling when everything is ready to bolt together! Apart from the saddle that is, it's proving to be a tough one to recover due to its shape. I've done a reasonably good job on recoveries before but this will be a real challenge.
Meanwhile, here's the likely finished spec list:
Frame: 1983 Raleigh Bomber Mk 2, powdercoated black and Framesavered with new decals and new stainless steel 1/4" UNF rear triangle fasteners
Fork: original, powdercoated as per frame
Headset: original chromed threaded with Raleigh dynamo mounting
Stem: original, powdercoated as per frame, new stainless steel clamp bolts
Handlebar: original chromed risers with period-ish Renthal brace with new stainless steel clamp bolts
Grips: new foam, close to originals as possible
Bar End Plugs: new Savage red, ditto
Brakes: original Sturmey-Archer chromed sidepulls
Brake Pads: new leatherfaced for chrome rims
Brake Cables: new
Brake Levers: original Sturmey-Archer
Shifters: original Sturmey-Archer 3 speed
Cassette: original Sturmey-Archer 18 tooth cog
Chain: new KMC
Cranks: original (Thun?) chromed cottered 150mm
Cotterpins: new
Chainrings: original (Thun?) chromed 40 tooth with original plastic chainguard
Bottom Bracket: original cottered
Pedals: NOS Raleigh rat-traps
Wheels nuts: original Sturmey-Archer rear, new track nuts front
Rims: original Raleigh chromed 26 x 2.125"
Hubs: original Sturmey-Archer with alloy Raleigh pie-plate on the rear
Nipples: original brass
Spokes: original galvanised
Tyres: new DMR Super Moto 26 x 2.2" tan wall
Tubes: Kenda
Saddle: TBC - original recovered fingers crossed!
Seatpost: NOS 25.4mm chromed candle with re-zinc-plated saddle rail clamp
Seatpost Binder: original bolt & locknut
Extras: kickstand, bell, original rear reflector
Frame and bits are back from powdercoating, have to say Sprayquick have done me proud once again! Will get some pics up over the weekend, too dark now... this weekend's jobs include applying Framesaver treatment, then bolting the rear end together and refitting the headbadge. Then I'll hopefully be applying the decals and fitting the headset, bottom bracket, seatpost & clamp, as well as the fork thimbles and the rebuilding the stem with new clamp bolts. It's such a nice feeling when everything is ready to bolt together! Apart from the saddle that is, it's proving to be a tough one to recover due to its shape. I've done a reasonably good job on recoveries before but this will be a real challenge.
Meanwhile, here's the likely finished spec list:
Frame: 1983 Raleigh Bomber Mk 2, powdercoated black and Framesavered with new decals and new stainless steel 1/4" UNF rear triangle fasteners
Fork: original, powdercoated as per frame
Headset: original chromed threaded with Raleigh dynamo mounting
Stem: original, powdercoated as per frame, new stainless steel clamp bolts
Handlebar: original chromed risers with period-ish Renthal brace with new stainless steel clamp bolts
Grips: new foam, close to originals as possible
Bar End Plugs: new Savage red, ditto
Brakes: original Sturmey-Archer chromed sidepulls
Brake Pads: new leatherfaced for chrome rims
Brake Cables: new
Brake Levers: original Sturmey-Archer
Shifters: original Sturmey-Archer 3 speed
Cassette: original Sturmey-Archer 18 tooth cog
Chain: new KMC
Cranks: original (Thun?) chromed cottered 150mm
Cotterpins: new
Chainrings: original (Thun?) chromed 40 tooth with original plastic chainguard
Bottom Bracket: original cottered
Pedals: NOS Raleigh rat-traps
Wheels nuts: original Sturmey-Archer rear, new track nuts front
Rims: original Raleigh chromed 26 x 2.125"
Hubs: original Sturmey-Archer with alloy Raleigh pie-plate on the rear
Nipples: original brass
Spokes: original galvanised
Tyres: new DMR Super Moto 26 x 2.2" tan wall
Tubes: Kenda
Saddle: TBC - original recovered fingers crossed!
Seatpost: NOS 25.4mm chromed candle with re-zinc-plated saddle rail clamp
Seatpost Binder: original bolt & locknut
Extras: kickstand, bell, original rear reflector
Re: Mk2 Raleigh Bomber 1983 restoration project *PICS*
Some shots of the new powdercoat finish:
More pics here:
http://deadrats.co.uk/2013/02/raleigh-b ... art-eight/
Some shots of the new powdercoat finish:
More pics here:
http://deadrats.co.uk/2013/02/raleigh-b ... art-eight/
Re: Mk2 Raleigh Bomber 1983 restoration project *PICS*
Nah, it came in as a frame only. I may try and build it up with some odds and sods at some stage
Dead Rats":egb1bxqm said:cce":egb1bxqm said:
Don't suppose the owner has a Bomber saddle in good nick?
Nah, it came in as a frame only. I may try and build it up with some odds and sods at some stage
Re: Mk2 Raleigh Bomber 1983 restoration project *PICS*
Did it by any chance come from a chap called Paul?
So, on with the build... it's details, details, details right now!
It appears we have a Mk.2 frame with a Mk.1 fork and headset. The steerer is too short for the dynamo mounting bracket (shame) but that only came on the Mk.1, so I'm fettling hard to get the Mk.1 headset to work as well as possible. I'm thinking that's why the previous owner used a more modern MTB fork & headset - the Mk.1 headset has tiny bearings which means everything has to be spot on parallel in order to adjust your way past play / binding.
Having a little trouble seating the crown race as Sprayquick didn't perfectly mask off the crown race area... cue tiny file and scalpel
In my stash I've found what looks identical to a Mk.2 front reflector, and what MAY be Mk.2 wheel reflectors
Turns out the frame bolts above the rear dropouts are 1/4" UNF, one is not super tight so I'll be Loctite-ing or even Superglue-ing nuts onto the end of the bolts (unlike factory spec) to secure them.
Headbadge went back on fine, used glue and managed to very lightly hammer the rivets back in, the powdercoat has made the holes in the headtube smaller so the rivets are a very tight fit now.
BB and cranks are in too, the rear brake caliper is on but want to get the gears working with the rear wheel in the perfect position before I fit the pads and braces.
Have fitted new stainless steel locknuts to the rear wheel tugs, plus new stainless track nuts to the front axle which should prevent paint loss as well as looking much bling-ier.
As I say... details, details, details!
Lots of greasy finger prints on the frame so will be giving it a proper clean and polish - after it's up and running - before applying the decals and grips.
In the absence of pics, here's some very nice Bomber p*rn for any fans, none of which are ours!
http://raleighgrifter.proboards.com/ind ... hread=3271
cce":2xburcdh said:Dead Rats":2xburcdh said:cce":2xburcdh said:
Don't suppose the owner has a Bomber saddle in good nick?
Nah, it came in as a frame only. I may try and build it up with some odds and sods at some stage
Did it by any chance come from a chap called Paul?
So, on with the build... it's details, details, details right now!
It appears we have a Mk.2 frame with a Mk.1 fork and headset. The steerer is too short for the dynamo mounting bracket (shame) but that only came on the Mk.1, so I'm fettling hard to get the Mk.1 headset to work as well as possible. I'm thinking that's why the previous owner used a more modern MTB fork & headset - the Mk.1 headset has tiny bearings which means everything has to be spot on parallel in order to adjust your way past play / binding.
Having a little trouble seating the crown race as Sprayquick didn't perfectly mask off the crown race area... cue tiny file and scalpel
In my stash I've found what looks identical to a Mk.2 front reflector, and what MAY be Mk.2 wheel reflectors
Turns out the frame bolts above the rear dropouts are 1/4" UNF, one is not super tight so I'll be Loctite-ing or even Superglue-ing nuts onto the end of the bolts (unlike factory spec) to secure them.
Headbadge went back on fine, used glue and managed to very lightly hammer the rivets back in, the powdercoat has made the holes in the headtube smaller so the rivets are a very tight fit now.
BB and cranks are in too, the rear brake caliper is on but want to get the gears working with the rear wheel in the perfect position before I fit the pads and braces.
Have fitted new stainless steel locknuts to the rear wheel tugs, plus new stainless track nuts to the front axle which should prevent paint loss as well as looking much bling-ier.
As I say... details, details, details!
Lots of greasy finger prints on the frame so will be giving it a proper clean and polish - after it's up and running - before applying the decals and grips.
In the absence of pics, here's some very nice Bomber p*rn for any fans, none of which are ours!
http://raleighgrifter.proboards.com/ind ... hread=3271
Re: Mk2 Raleigh Bomber 1983 restoration project *PICS*
Anyone who's got a Bomber saddle in good nick is a worthy cause! As is Lemmy
Dunno really, they don't really come up for sale very often, could you possibly send me a couple of photos?
phush1 AT gmail DOT com
Cheers!!!
Al
cce":mlmkq6fz said:
Anyone who's got a Bomber saddle in good nick is a worthy cause! As is Lemmy
Dunno really, they don't really come up for sale very often, could you possibly send me a couple of photos?
phush1 AT gmail DOT com
Cheers!!!
Al
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