Marzocchi QR20

[Jason Cook]

Hello again! Anyone know the difference between marzocchi’s circa 1998-2000 z1, z2, z3 QR20’s? (Thru-axel)

I’m pretty familiar with their normal normal skewer forks such as z1 BAM etc being that z1 had longer travel for DH, z2 has shorter travel for XC and z3 had a lower build quality although I managed to snag some z3 1998 z3 QR20’s for £40 with wheel with QR20 hub too... I initially though they were z1’s due to their travel of 110mm and square bottoms like traditional z1 BAMs although inspection on the serial number shows they’re z3’s... the adjusters are the same as z1’s etc I just have no idea what the difference is as I’m going to strip and polish silver as paint an decals are abit tatty... was the z system on QR20’s just for colours?

Can’t find the difference...

 

[Timoth27]

Re:

It’s basically a 20mm axle (20x110) but instead of being clamped all the way around the axle at either side of the wheel (fork legs) it’s like a drop out. It uses the same axle as a bolt through but you don’t need to remove the axle to remove the wheel, I’ll pop you up a pic of my junior t fork tomorrow if you like.

 

[Jason Cook]

Re:

Hi! Thanks for your reply! Sorry I think I may of confused you... I understand they have a quick realease by through axle although was wondering what the difference between the z1 QR20 / z2 QR20 and the z3 QR20 :S

 

[Timoth27]

Re:

Ahh don’t worry it’s not hard. When you put it like that I thought it was just a different dropout option but I’m sure someone will be along to give you a much more useful answer.

 

[eshew]

Re:

Early Z1's had 2 HSCV cartridges. 1 per side, can be identified by the perload knob & the flat blade slot for rebound control (See bottom pic). Later Z1's had 1 HSCV cart.

A Z3 should just have 2 preload knobs (See top pic), and maybe rebound control on the bottom of 1 leg.

The chassis are identical, but the internals aren't.

Not very difficult to swap Z1 internals into a Z3, essentially making it a Z1 aside from the decals.

The Z1's HSCV cart(s) is a higher quality damper than the rather simple orifice controlled damper on the Z3.

When riding the Z3 will be more prone to spiking on the trail. Whereas the Z1 can take hard fast hits in a much more controlled manner.

2003+ Z1's differed as they went into sub catagories like the Freeride & Dirtjump series. The Freeride 1 retained the excellent damper and the rest didn't have it, FR2 DJ1 DJ2 etc.

 

[Jason Cook]

Re:

Thank you so much! That’s amazing news I was actually going to strip my z3 QR20’s and polish and funnily enough I have some damaged 97-98 z1’s so I might swap the centres whoop whoop!!

Do they have differed travel these are 110mm my z1 bams are 130mm I believe :S

 

[eshew]

I think Z3's are all over the board in terms of travel. The Z3's were more likely to come stock on bikes & the manufacturers would request travels from 100mm to 130mm.

If you do have a trashed set of Z1's it would be worthwhile to swap out the carts & negative springs if you'll be riding the fork. The difference between the 2 systems is night & day on the trail.

 

[Yetidh9]

I wery much second this comment on the ride quality:

"If you do have a trashed set of Z1's it would be worthwhile to swap out the carts & negative springs if you'll be riding the fork. The difference between the 2 systems is night & day on the trail."

Its almost like cheeting putting on a z1 on your vintage ride. It make it feel much more like the modern bikes (with a bit more moment on standing pedaling, though).

If you have a z1 and you want to lover it, you can bacically shorten the main spring (the one that goes in from the top of the fork) and extend the return spring with the same amount of mm (this is the spring that sits around the damper and that can only be removed when you take out the damper).

 

[Yetidh9]

BTW: Im doing a Z1 conversion with: X-Fly crown, reduced travel and likely the electric red other legs from a z2.