Manitou 1's - missing internals! What do the missing parts look like?

[TOMAS]

Anyone happen to know if they are the same size as possible bushes used in Mani 2,3,4 etc? I might have an old set of Mani legs (Might be comps or similar) but as far as I know they did have a fair few interchangeable parts. Do any bush places do any that are greater than 6mm tall - im guessing you'll still get away with say 7 or 8mm tall ones in there?

 

[FluffyChicken]

They're the bushing so will by Nylon or PTFE I would guess, I have a set open but never actually checked (mine are later I think)
3D printing would be a bit rough unless somebody has a nice resin/sla printer etc.

 

[mforrest]

Don"t forget the rebound rubber inside the upper legs....

M2-parts could fit too, just a guess. This was the same technical solution than the M1, they changed from M3 to the up side down inner parts.

Good luck Martin

 

[boy"O"boy]

They're the bushing so will by Nylon or PTFE I would guess, I have a set open but never actually checked (mine are later I think)
3D printing would be a bit rough unless somebody has a nice resin/sla printer etc.

So.
Haven't been able to get original bushes. The nearest I could find off the shelf were the right internal/external diameters but 26mm in length with a flange. I could have bought a pair and cut them down.....but having access to 3D printing, why not get just what you want (and make extras whilst you're at it!)

3 test ones were done in 99/100/101 % sizes to test fit / shrinkage etc...then trial fitted to the stantions to gauge best fit.
The 101% came up the perfect fit.
The button was then pushed to make 10 pairs.

Anyone that works with 3D printed parts on a regular basis will know that you can't use them straight of the printer.
You can see from the pics below that each bush has a slight flange from the initial layer as it melts to the hot bed plate.
I've rubbed this off using 1000grit paper...this also highlights the layers of print in manufacture.
I'm rubbing them smooth - it doesn't take much to improve the surface.
It's a tougher resin so I'm not distorting the outer surface in anyway- just de-nibbing it.

Here's a few pics.

Got a spring kit from @fguki and dust seals + silicone grease from @johndeverill so hopefully building the forks up this weekend.

Don"t forget the rebound rubber inside the upper legs....

M2-parts could fit too, just a guess. This was the same technical solution than the M1, they changed from M3 to the up side down inner parts.

Good luck Martin

Thanks Martin.

I would have probably forgotten this! - so I've made sure I've read the reassembly instructions thoroughly!



Cheers
boy"O"boy

 

[FluffyChicken]

You can also print so Evolution headset spacers etc out
My granny spacers and plastic Allen bolts are still working well, and I'm only using PLA and nothing erm more suitable.
Tubes are nice and easy.

 

[fguki]

Hi Boy! Dont forget to cut the rings. You will not be able to re-assemble all the parts and get all of it back in the stanchions if theyre still a full tube/circle. Good Luck mate.

 

[mk one]

ooo, might need a set of those, though not sure which model i have off the top of my head, and have not had them apart yet so it all may be fine in there anyway

 

[boy"O"boy]

You can also print so Evolution headset spacers etc out
My granny spacers and plastic Allen bolts are still working well, and I'm only using PLA and nothing erm more suitable.
Tubes are nice and easy.

Cheers FC. This is the 1st 3D printed part I've have done in ages! As you say, tubes are nice and easy! ....10 years ago I did a batch of magura line guides for my RC100. If I could find the file...I'd have some more done.

Hi Boy! Dont forget to cut the rings. You will not be able to re-assemble all the parts and get all of it back in the stanchions if theyre still a full tube/circle. Good Luck mate.

Cheers fguki!
Yeah...looking at the disassembly diagrams, it doesn't show this.....but when you re-assemble it becomes clear why you need the cut in the ring.
I think my outer size is slightly off...mainly due to guessing the size rather than having the actual part to measure...so I'm going to run another batch.

Which brings me onto....

Couldn't work out when I was re-assembling why the bolt that goes through the slider and holds the spring assembly wouldn't attach to the fork leg?
Had a torch down the stantion and could see what I thought was it's locator. Probing in with a kebab skewer- turns out they were the washers that separated the original elastomers! ....and underneath was the gunky remnants of what was left. My initial thoughts that I'd got lucky and these had already been cleaned out were wrong!
On the plus side....also buried in the elastomer gunk were the 2 original bushes!
So I've now got something to measure the correct size when I get some more 3D printed ones done.

Modified kebab skewer hooking tool!


Proper 'split' bushes found inside elastomer remains


True bush external size. Back to the drawing board for the 3D printing

ooo, might need a set of those, though not sure which model i have off the top of my head, and have not had them apart yet so it all may be fine in there anyway

No problems Mark. Let me get them redone in the correct size though.

Cheers.
boy"O"boy

 

[fguki]

Oh yeah! I know what you mean. I spent many hours in my life getting all that nasty stuff out of the tubes! Its the horrible part of revising these Manitous :-D

 

[rva]

And if you need elastomers, just let me know