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From memory I think the elastomers are marginally longer so that when it’s all buttoned up there is a certain a month of preloading going on however someone more authoritative/ knowledgeable will be along shortly to advise
Manitou 1 - Elastomer Restoration
- Thread starter rjsdavis
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Smithjss70
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Very helpful thread!
Retro Spud":26jy1x1n said:
Thanks Spud...
However, that does seem to contradict Elite's most recent post, as I'm sure I'm interpreting it correctly in that he's saying that at least "some threads" on the stack bolt would be showing when the forks go back together?
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rjsdavis":2dg9cxvv said:
Go with whatever Elite advises (he’s proper knowledgeable) I used replacement elastomers from Suspension fork parts they could have been marginally too long or I re-assembled it in correctly what you definitely don’t want it to have too much thread showing as you’ll end up with a bit of play i.e when you lift the front end the forks drop a few mm’s due to the elastomers stack not being long enough.
I believe Regan is rebuilding his soon and sure he will share his results/findings
Sorry for the delay in chipping back in, as I say, I can't get time to rummage the forum too often.
YES, your interpretation of the elastomer stack order of assembly is correct.
Re the amount of thread sticking out of the stack, IF you slid all the elastomers up the bolt, you'll have maybe 1/2" of bolt sticking out of the bottom, BUT when assembling (and I think you've got-it, but I'll say anyway), you need to pull the stack down so you can get that split bush above the top washer, and give yourself enough room to squish it up and through the top seal and bush during assembly.
Squirting quite a lot of crease into the hole on the bottom elastomer with a grease gun is a good idea as it sticks the elastomer and stops it dropping off. The more room you can give yourself at the top of the stack, the better.
If you elastomer stack is slightly too long, it doesn't matter, it'll quish the stack a bit when you bolt it up (but for full disclosure, this will increase preload, which will mean the fork needs a slightly larger impact before it starts moving [i.e. will decrease sensitivity to the smallest bumps, and will increase rebound]). More than likely not enough that you'll really notice, and realistically the ambient temperature will probably have a greater effect.
Hope the rebuilding is going well!
YES, your interpretation of the elastomer stack order of assembly is correct.
Re the amount of thread sticking out of the stack, IF you slid all the elastomers up the bolt, you'll have maybe 1/2" of bolt sticking out of the bottom, BUT when assembling (and I think you've got-it, but I'll say anyway), you need to pull the stack down so you can get that split bush above the top washer, and give yourself enough room to squish it up and through the top seal and bush during assembly.
Squirting quite a lot of crease into the hole on the bottom elastomer with a grease gun is a good idea as it sticks the elastomer and stops it dropping off. The more room you can give yourself at the top of the stack, the better.
If you elastomer stack is slightly too long, it doesn't matter, it'll quish the stack a bit when you bolt it up (but for full disclosure, this will increase preload, which will mean the fork needs a slightly larger impact before it starts moving [i.e. will decrease sensitivity to the smallest bumps, and will increase rebound]). More than likely not enough that you'll really notice, and realistically the ambient temperature will probably have a greater effect.
Hope the rebuilding is going well!
