Magura hydaulic rim brakes - To buy or not to buy?

I run exactly the same ones on my Orange and have done for years and many miles.....mine came with the quick releases which are a must, and it's true that changing pads takes approx 10 seconds.....

You really can't go wrong...
 
Leave as is vote :D
#1


But for £30 grab those brakes with both hands ,you will find a spot on another frame for them ;)
 
I've got them on 2 of my rides and love them. Pain to set up 100% but when done are pretty much fit and forget. Play around with pad compounds as well. Do note that they suffer from heatsoak after a few heavy descents too.


These are the levers I bought recently for my Marin build, they have a great fluid feel to them in action

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The slaves were yellow HS33 racelines that I nitromorzed and polished up a treat although they look dull in this pic they are quite shiny IRL

6087444617_23793f7b57_b.jpg


These are the older HS "Blue" levers with the ltd edition CNC'd lever blades and TPA knobs. I use these on my Proflex and work a treat although they probably could do with a service and a bleed since i cooked the pads a few weeks back in the mud hehe

4612613156_b81d76b1c2_b.jpg
 
As above - buy them for £30 and find a use for them later. If they're nice and tidy and un-faded they're a bargain at that price.

The Cinder Cone is looking really good, though I reckon that you could lose half a link (one pitch) from the chain and get that tensioner pushing up.
It's the law ;)
 
Andy R":1re4ji3p said:
As above - buy them for £30 and find a use for them later. If they're nice and tidy and un-faded they're a bargain at that price.

The Cinder Cone is looking really good, though I reckon that you could lose half a link (one pitch) from the chain and get that tensioner pushing up.
It's the law ;)

There's a clunk/crack when I put a lot of force on the pedals. Do you think it's because the chain is too slack (it's as tight as I can get it without getting hold of a half link) :?
 
b3oty":exe2gll0 said:
There's a clunk/crack when I put a lot of force on the pedals. Do you think it's because the chain is too slack (it's as tight as I can get it without getting hold of a half link) :?

It's due to lack of chain wrap - that's why I suggested configuring the tensioner to push up.
If your sprocket has sixteen teeth then your chain is probably only in contact with five or six teeth and under load it just rides up over the sprocket.

Fit a Gussett half link (well, link and a half really) to get rid of that slack. This one, and fit it using two master links. It's the only half link worth bothering with, in my opinion.
 
Andy R":4hvbpyas said:
b3oty":4hvbpyas said:
There's a clunk/crack when I put a lot of force on the pedals. Do you think it's because the chain is too slack (it's as tight as I can get it without getting hold of a half link) :?

It's due to lack of chain wrap - that's why I suggested configuring the tensioner to push up.
If your sprocket has sixteen teeth then your chain is probably only in contact with five or six teeth and under load it just rides up over the sprocket.

Fit a Gussett half link (well, link and a half really) to get rid of that slack. This one, and fit it using two master links. It's the only half link worth bothering with, in my opinion.

Thanks. I've actually just ordered a DMR tensioner (the fixed type that pushes up). I'm going to send this piece of **** back! :evil:
 
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