Magura HS info

I just got tired of pissing around with hydraulic fluid. Never got them to the point where I could ride them. I dumped my disc hydros too because of it. I manufactured my own bleed kit out of a couple of spare fittings, some clear tubing and a couple of medical syringes. Worked like a charm.

The newer levers definitely seem to be more fragile than the old ones - I picked up a broken one cheap for parts.
 
Nice timing, finding this thread at the top!

Can anyone tell me exactly what parts I need to lengthen a hs33 hose? From the lever to the slave (I'm converting a front brake to the rear). From what I can work out I need the following:

- Hose (obviously!). Will any 5mm hydraulic hose do? What's the inside diameter of magura hose? Can the barbed fitting that fixes the hose to the lever be reused, or will I need another one?

- a new olive for the other end

- Oil

-A bleed kit of some sort

I'll also replace the slave-slave crossover hose at the same time - I assume I need the hose and two olives, nothing else? Or do I need new sleeve nuts too?

Have I missed anything?

And can anyone explain (hopefully with pics!) the difference in the mounting bracket kits? I think the first one was the one with silver studs that used a spanner for adjustment? Not sure what this one was called. Then came the one with black plastic studs with a series of notched positions - is that one evo? Ans the current one appears to be evo2 - what's the difference over the first evo, apart from the ugly looking mounting frame and brace?

thanks!
 
you will need to use magura hose. I believe the Louise brakes and the rim brakes use the same model of hose. I bought the name brand oil, but there are a number of opportunities to use mineral based hydraulic oil for cars. I posted about this a year ago or so here - check the threads. Good info there. I reused my olives and threaded adaptors, but you should ideally replace them. You can get them as kits off ebay. Chain reaction cycles may be another good place to look as they sell modern magura rim brakes and had a lot of bits and bobs if I remember correctly. You can frequently buy the oil, the hardware, hose and bleed kits off ebay in a package deal. I was too cheap and just bodged stuff together which worked fine until I tried to fit them to my bike.
 
Re:

Just been (trying) to set up a set of HS22 Raceline brakes.
The system was empty when I got them as I had to re-connect the hose from lever to master cylinder. I filled with mineral oil & bled them, but the back brake seems to have an issue.
The pistons in the calipers retract very slowly, they push out fine when you pull the lever, but upon releasing the lever they ever so slowly slide back into the calipers.
I've tried removing the pads and pushing one piston out at a time to lube it, which seemed to help a little, but it's still an issue.

Is there anything else I can try? could it still be air in the system??
 
I have previously found with maguras that if left empty for a while they seem to gum/varnish up.

On a couple of occasions with their disc brakes I have filled them with hot water with biological washing powder dissolved in it and worked them too and fro then leaving them in a bucket to soak, repeat etc then in the end flushing them with clean water etc.

Drastic but worked for me.
 
Re: Re:

jimo746":1gdnkdlc said:
Just been (trying) to set up a set of HS22 Raceline brakes.
The system was empty when I got them as I had to re-connect the hose from lever to master cylinder. I filled with mineral oil & bled them, but the back brake seems to have an issue.
The pistons in the calipers retract very slowly, they push out fine when you pull the lever, but upon releasing the lever they ever so slowly slide back into the calipers.
I've tried removing the pads and pushing one piston out at a time to lube it, which seemed to help a little, but it's still an issue.

Is there anything else I can try? could it still be air in the system??

Don't know any immediate other than try a reblead making sure the tpa are fully out if you javethem, but mineral oil gets expensive.
So I would drain and pull the pistons out completely and give then a good degrease and wash.
 
Re:

So the pistons do come out then? I'll give that a go, see how I get on, thanks.
 
Re:

Hmmm... I'd better not try that then :LOL:

I'll re-bleed them tomorrow and report back...
 
My_Teenage_Self":2ffihnkm said:
Nonononono! No.

If you pull the pistons out, it's toast for the calipers. They're not meant to come apart.

They do come apart, you then clean and put them back in. It's the same method used when people use water in them and damage the plastic seal/rings. The only way to sand them down.

Also the proper way to refinish them and solve a lazy fing piston problem.


When you press both in does it feel like there is any restriction to the oil flow, it could be dirt or crimping in the tubing as well.
 
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