Mag steerer tube threading. Any tips?

ATBOY

Dirt Disciple
Hi, I’m about to thread a steerer on a mag21. A friend borrowed me the tool for it (which he’d never used). Initially the mag I got was threadless, but for aesthetic reasons, I’d like it threaded. Plus the original build was a threaded mag21 on a peugeot team grisley. Any tips before I commence? I’ll get some cutting oil. From what Ive read so far, its best to open the die up and do a shallow thread, then do a deeper one. Is there a possibility of misaligning it somehow?
 
No idea, just repeating what I've read TBH - the steerer will be tough, so just accept that it may not work well, or ruin the tool.

As fluffy chicken said, check the internal diameter first as it may not be right for a quill stem.
 
As above, it's not as simple as some assume. For Mag21s it genuinely is better to get a replacement crown and steerer. These can occasionally be picked up for very little. Also, your threadless is quite attractive to people as the majority of Mag21s were threaded. Although this may slow down your build, I would go on here and ask about swaps.

1 as FC rightly says, check that the quill stem will actually fit in the steerer.

2 you have to check that the wall diameter of the tubing is adequate, otherwise the steerer will be compromised. This will need a bit of digging, since RS varied spec quite a bit as they went for lighter, stronger etc. Vernier to measure the wall thickness then some research on web needed.

3 steerers are TOUGH, some are VERY TOUGH. I had a problem of extending a thread on a Reynolds steerer and a highly competent tech friend said 'forget it...that will wreck any cutter which I have...'. And that was just extending a thread a bit, not cutting a completely new one. It can be done, but you need the right tools and recognise that, factory fabrication, they are cut on lathes with mega-tough tungsten-headed cutting tools. Hand tools are definitely not the same. Mild steel yes. Tempered high tensile, no.

I would def go down the enchange route, and two people will get want they want. I hope it works out, I have been there many times trying to sort things like this out and you need a Plan A, Plan B and Plan Z as the constraints become clear.
 
The issue with cutting a thread is making sure you start dead straight on the steerer.

This goes for all thread cutting.

Its not so bad if your extending the thread, as obviously your cut will follow the existing.

One other thing is follow the old rule of 1 turn on 1/2 turn back. This removes debris and aids a clean cut.

Plenty of cutting fluid.

Oh....and (as said above) do check the quill will fit. The walls of aheads are not the same as threaded always.....and check there will be enough meat to cut your thread into.
 
I've tried this and would echo everything said above. The stem fit so I thought I'd try. Ultimately I wasn't happy and never used it, the resulting thread was rough and I'm not 100% sure it's straight. I think the best option is to look for a new one or swap. If you really must then get someone like @danson67 to do it with a lathe, firstly he would advise if it's possible with your particular steerer and also would cut a slot for the headset lock washer, which depending on the headset can make the difference between it being fine and constantly coming loose.
 

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