MacFatro - Fatbike news and builds thread

dyna-ti":22u7y648 said:
Question
...Could you chaps supply me with some measurements ? In respect of a mudguard :)

...Also would need an approximate distance to the ,whatever the rods will attach to on the frame. P clips maybe ,i dont know, whats down there or didnt they consider guards.- still to look into this. so the rods as long enough to lift it well clear of the tyre.
As this is cold laminating i need to make a former(youve seen one before ;) ) to bend the layers around.
Limited to length of layers so im not sure if theres enough to wrap around much of the wheel or whether 1/2 around covering the majority of the mud slinging bits.
The diameter of the wheel including tyre....:

Sounds good.

As far as the length goes consider splitting the guard so it is in 2 pieces, ie 1 bit behind the seatstay/fork bridge, and one in front. It would make mounting much easier and if made QR even better.

I hinge mine. Makes mud clearing much easier.



BTW what veneers do you use? I was thinking of building a wee boat and I don't know the UK woods. (Thinking more of light and strong rather than for continuous immersion)
 
Im ok for a frame thanks :) Its just a wee project, which may or may not turn out the way i want it to.

What length are the rods on that er...guard :) and when theyre attached, what is the width at the top, where it attaches ?

As to the boat building ,its something ive recently been looking at. I was looking to do a barrel shaped cabined and looked at it being made using boat building technic in the way of carver construction. Fell through due to technical constraints.
A wee bit of research on timbers and its pretty much anything . Oak, Ash, Cedar, Douglas Fir. I was pointed away from iroko, something to do with it being very prone to movement on machining , but that said its a timber builders use so must have more to it. and its not veneers, though you can buy it like that for cold pressing, but i'd point anyone not pretty clued up and of practical disposition to look towards using boards around a traditional frame.
Also ,anything that glues well and isnt oily or overly resinous is another criteria.
West boat builders epoxy is the best stuff, which is my choice on this guard. Its 0.6mm balsa so will soak right through and after about a week should be a pretty sold lump
This is a guy ive bought off in the past. Not cedar but exotics. This might be a good person to ask.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CEDAR-PLANKS- ... Swk1JWflry
I think with such strips that you could double diagonal lay, built up in 2 layers. And i think in that construction you can include a sheet of fiberglass or carbon between the layers

Wanna go halfers on a boat refit ? ;)
I am so drooling over this and wondering where the fk i can get the funds from and then the rental funds for the shed, and the horrific projected coast of a refit.
I consider it a goer as ive the skill and machinery to complete this i reckon pretty well.
If this wizney Skye or it were 20 or even 10 years back i'd be there now.

Hmmm, should i show :?
http://scotland.apolloduck.co.uk/featur ... ?id=456470
 
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dyna-ti":3smh99e5 said:
...What length are the rods on that er...guard :) and when theyre attached, what is the width at the top, where it attaches ?

...Wanna go halfers on a boat refit ?...

The hinge rods are actually a rack mount kit I modified. The stays are made from B&Qs alloy tubing.

I have a neater hinge mount on a later bike. I used a seat clamp with integral rack mounts and a home made bracket. Sorry there's no better pic, but if you zoom in on the seat clamp, you'll see it better.




As for 50' yachts - no way! :)

Been there, done that. I'm now convinced the only yacht worth having is at least 150' long so the crew's quarters are far enough away from the master stateroom so you don't have to listen to their coarse carousing and wench pleasuring.

These days, it's got to be short enough and light enough to pick up and stick on top of a car. :)
 
Once the former is made and the sizes known Jamie ,its pretty much only limited by the imagination. Splicing in veneers in the same way as marquetry or adding lines or colours or coloured layers cut through in sanding to produce a wavy line.
In fact you can but some very decorative stringing that could be placed along the centre line eg(very small example)


Time consuming though.
 
Just a thought.

If you're going to build round shaped objects out of wood, why not a set of fatbike rims? :)
 
Now we're talking :)
Pugs would look great with a set of wooden rims, a lightish shade I think, maybe Oak.

Jamie
 
Guys :LOL: Nae offence and i like the ideas but its something im used to doing on me own :oops: And eventually ill do one for my own bike(idea forming) but this for a fat bike will read Fat Bike in big fat letters.

Once you start getting fancy theres more risk of it not working out the first few times and if its all fancy its a waste of funds. Id rather do a few runs of trial things to get some ideas out before i make anything that could be expected to survive long.

Its nicer to just give away models if theyve worked out ok, even if theyre not considered in my finals. You end up with a glut of these things :shock:
Plus the set made by Scooter on here, were really nice but for me really nice in the use of copper, whereas id been looking to use a baser metal.

Besides ive no transport so getting a sheet of mdf to make up a former(a kind of mould) is hard so i cannot place a timescale on this.
 
****Copied from elsewhere on macretro ***

Put the Pugsley back together today. Was supposed to have been done ages ago but due to family stuff and a good few weird problems with my old BB it was put on the backburner. I thought I better get my finger out and sort it for Dunkeld but then a few hassles again with a bb cup and it was only chased out yesterday afternoon and put together this afternoon. Now Dunkeld is cancelled I will have it out as its been out of action for a while now.
I was originally going to just put it back together as it was before but then as time went on I thought of a few changes. Only minor stuff as changed the stem from black to a polished race Face, thanks Kaiser, then same for the seatpost, stem spacers etc. Polished up the sides/braking surfaces of the Large Marge rims.
Bottom bracket was a pain due to Truvativ not doing the Hussalfelt anymore and finding a 100mm one near impossible then when I did it was about £60, so I ended up just buying a standard one for £16 and using my axle and internal shield. If I changed BB then I would have to change chainset as well.
Then after a good few years using only the H bars off road I decided to try, for a change, a set of Surly Torsion bars I had picked up before NOS. I liked the bend and it was only this afternoon once it was all together that I thought, what the hell, I'll try them and see how they go. I only had a short ride but they feel really nice. They are strange long as due to the bend and where it is they tend to look from certain angles as though they aren't symmetrical. they are its just an optic.
Anyway I just thought I would share as the sun was out and the sparkly bits in the paint were noticeable. It wont unfortunately be this way for long as I must say the paint is....poo...If you look at it the wrong way bits start flaking off, I did up the brake bolts gently, and it was just flaking off. When I put the front wheel in the drop outs and was doing it up, Heather who was having a coffee on the back step remarked that she could hear the paint cracking. Oh well, such is life.
Here's a couple of pics.

Jamie
With old bars
DSC_1198 by Jamie Dyer, on Flickr

DSC_1204 by Jamie Dyer, on Flickr

Surly Torsion Bar by Nitto
DSC_1218 by Jamie Dyer, on Flickr

DSC_1227 by Jamie Dyer, on Flickr

DSC_1229 by Jamie Dyer, on Flickr

DSC_1232 by Jamie Dyer, on Flickr

DSC_1233 by Jamie Dyer, on Flickr

DSC_1234 by Jamie Dyer, on Flickr
 
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